[BigSilver]

So I tried checking for codes with a Tech2, and the Tech2 could not communicate. Kept indicating to check the harness. I tried hooking up a regular OBD scan tool and it worked. Does anyone know where to find the communication failure?

 

[BigSilver]

After further research, I found the problem was related to a burned out IPC 10A fuse (located under the hood in the main fuse box). How irritating.

 

[tvolfan]

I have a 2005 Chevy Avalanche and my battery went dead during the winter and I tried to boost it off but I had to buy a new battery. Ever since my battery went dead, all of my gauges will go off at the same time and they will come back on. It does that constantly. They will come back on and stay on for about 5 seconds and then they all go off like you were to turn off the ignition. Also, the radio or Onstar won't work and when you turn on the air conditioner, it won't blow out cold air. I listened to see if the compressor was kicking on but it doesnt. Also on the gauge cluster, the security light is on.

The truck will run and drive fine, the only thing is that none of the stuff that I mentioned works and it stinks not being able to listen to the radio. I have tried to see if I could find out and possibly fix it but I'm stuck and don't know what to do. I don't want to have to take it to the dealer if it's something I can do but I will if I have to. Can someone please help me and give me some advice on what I need to do...

 

[Oren76]

I bought a 2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 with 135,000 miles on it. 3 days after I bought it (of course) I was driving and all of a sudden all of the gauges stopped working. The digital display that shows the gear selection still worked, as did the digital display that shows mileage, fuel consumption, etc. still worked, as did the warning lights (low fuel, check engine, etc.) Just the needles themselves on ALL the gauges wen't left and stopped. I checked IPC/DIC Fuse in the fuse box under the hood with a fuse tester and it showed fine. I then checked the IGN E fuse and it too showed fine. For some reason, I pulled out the IPC/DIC fuse and put it back in. It was not blown, as indicated. But when I put the fuse back in, the gauges started working again. They've worked ever since. I don't know, other then maybe it needed a reset or something.

 

[chadbh74]

I realize this thread is a bit dated, however a concise explanation of these dash cluster problems and the appropriate remedy to correcting them has eluded me after months of research online. I did find plenty of people that said they could fix it, but they didn't say how. I found people that said it was a power issue (vague, but they were right). Here is what I've learned....


Ok, first of all, my dashboard cluster WAS fine in my 2003 Avalanche. About 6 months ago I took the cluster apart because most of the bulbs were blown and I didn't feel like paying GM 200-300$ for a whole new cluster, which is what they tell you is needed. The bulbs were soldered to the board, I simply unsoldered them and replaced them with 194 bulbs. This did work. However, when I reinstalled the cluster, sometimes it would work fine, sometimes it would act dead (i.e. no activity at all) except the blinkers did work and the bulbs I installed. I later went back in and replaced the bulbs with LED's since I never wanted to have to replace the bulbs again.

I checked all connects and everything seemed fine. I noticed putting pressure on connections or parts of the board sometimes made it "spring to life" and start working for a while. I thought maybe I had damaged something with the board. Then I was searching online and I found where other GM vehicle owners had experience the EXACT SAME THING but had never done anything at all with their clusters...


* Intermittent power (sometimes cluster works, sometimes not)
* Gauge works sometimes, sometimes doees not.
* Gear shift select indicator dim (or bright sometimes, dim at others despite all headlights etc. being off)

If you are experiencing anything like the above, your problem is most likely the same: There are some power resistors and diodes on the cluster board that were only soldered on at the factory "so-so". Sometimes vibration or messing around with the cluster can cause the the solder connections on these parts to weaken and only connect INTERMITTENTLY. This is a simple problem, but sometimes elusive to locate.

There are a couple of ways to test this. The first involves de-soldering the parts and testing them and reinstalling/replacing as necessary. This is the most "scientific" but there is another method that can be performed by just about anyone and it's a lot quicker and easier. This method may not find the bad soldered point all of the time but I've seen YouTube videos where people have tried it and it worked for them, and it also worked for me! What you do is take a NON-CONDUCTIVE pointed object (I used a plastic inkpen housing) and started gently pushing on various resistors and components around the board while it's hooked up to your vehicle, NOT working and vehicle ignition switch ON. In a section of the board I found several possible parts that when pressed upon made the board spring to life. One of the surface mount resistors actually fell off the board when I pushed! WOW it was barely on there. Fortunately I didn't lose it.

Solution: I fluxed and re-soldered every resistor in this area and and reinstalled in my Avalanche. For the first time in 6 months I haven't had to beat the cluster with my hand after starting the vehicle. The gauge cluster has worked FLAWLESSLY (for several weeks now at the time of this writing). I am so relieved to have found the problem and corrected it to what is actually better-than-factory condition. The soldering is better, the LED lighting is better and should last the life of the vehicle.

 

[merasnick]

Hello, I recently purchased a 2014 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD crew cab and had the dash instruments turn off while driving. Truck still drove ok - just no gauges. ABS light came on as well. I pulled over turned truck off and re-started - all appears to be working ok for now. Anyone else have this happen to their 2014? Thank you, Mike

 

[Uzzy]

Hello, I recently purchased a 2014 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD crew cab and had the dash instruments turn off while driving. Truck still drove ok - just no gauges. ABS light came on as well. I pulled over turned truck off and re-started - all appears to be working ok for now. Anyone else have this happen to their 2014? Thank you, Mike

Mike,
I've never heard of it in a 2014, but obviously it's still under warranty. I'd guess that in your case, it's probably a loose wiring harness, rather than a bad dash, or bad dial motors, or anything like that.

 

[yeshal9000]

Instrument Cluster ....replaced the servos and light bulbs on my 2003 gmc yukon xl 1500 flex fuel 5.3 and it was all working nicely until today (8 hours later),
now none of the gauges or idiot lights work however if you turn the headlights on the lights in the dash come on.
all of the warning lights even the high beam indicator will not illuminate. none of the needles move either.

"Its Dead Jim"

I have tried reseating the plug into the instrument panel. disconnected the battery for a half hour. Cussed at it, pounded on the dash, drank a beer, and posted to this forum.

285K miles on the truck so I am confident it's out of warranty.
going to try to replace the ignition switch.

By the way, the reason I went and replaced the servos and lights was that the RPM indicator was bouncing and several of the lights were not working. so I replaced the servos and the incandescent lights with LED white lights. burned my fingers twice with the soldering iron. that was about 18 hours ago.

I did read about the recall. It does not apply to me as I just did the recall and replace the servos.

Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks

 

[yeshal9000]

I will try this tonight

I

There are a couple of ways to test this. The first involves de-soldering the parts and testing them and reinstalling/replacing as necessary. This is the most "scientific" but there is another method that can be performed by just about anyone and it's a lot quicker and easier. This method may not find the bad soldered point all of the time but I've seen YouTube videos where people have tried it and it worked for them, and it also worked for me! What you do is take a NON-CONDUCTIVE pointed object (I used a plastic inkpen housing) and started gently pushing on various resistors and components around the board while it's hooked up to your vehicle, NOT working and vehicle ignition switch ON. In a section of the board I found several possible parts that when pressed upon made the board spring to life. One of the surface mount resistors actually fell off the board when I pushed! WOW it was barely on there. Fortunately I didn't lose it.

Solution: I fluxed and re-soldered every resistor in this area and and reinstalled in my Avalanche. For the first time in 6 months I haven't had to beat the cluster with my hand after starting the vehicle. The gauge cluster has worked FLAWLESSLY (for several weeks now at the time of this writing). I am so relieved to have found the problem and corrected it to what is actually better-than-factory condition. The soldering is better, the LED lighting is better and should last the life of the vehicle.

 

[yeshal9000]

oh and by the way the P R N D 3 2 1 is dim... looking for that answer too.

 

[yeshal9000]

Tried the ignition switch and that did not help... meanwhile when disconnecting the cluster to check the board. i reconnected it and let the smoke out. so i went to the parts store and bought a new one it should be here in a week. 180 bucks.. and i handed them mine so no core charge. LOL
trying to drive the truck with out it is kind of unnerving but i use the odb2 interface to get the data i need LOL
if it isn't one thing its another.

 

[yeshal9000]

LOL i let the smoke out of mine.. reconnecting it. "its dead jim" bought a referb one.

 

[mewright00]

What ended up being the issue? I am dealing with the same issue today. Please help.

 

[mewright00]

sspower76 what ended up being the issue? I am having that same issue today. Please help.

 

[MNreD2003aV]

Thank you! I used this test procedure... it worked. :drive The key is having the cluster non-operational when applying pressure. This can be determined by plugging it in to the wire harness with the key off; one or more of the stepper motors starts when first plugged in. If there is no sound, the cluster is dead. There were actually multiple resistors that were either cracked, or showing signs of corrosion. Using my Bernzomatic butane solder iron with fine tip, I re-soldered all the connections, works like a champ. The sad part is this cluster had already been replaced (by the dealer) for the speedo not working 7 years ago. It was apparently not replaced with a new one, but a salvaged one as it has typical yard markings written on it with grease pen. :slap:

 

[loneranger10]

Having the same issues with my 2005 GMC Sierra 3500. Sometimes the IPC works, and then all the gauges die. The lights stay on but the gauges do not work. Sometimes the Park, Drive Neutral etc... will be lit up and sometimes not. Had the IPC repaired and it worked the first time I started the truck, then the IPC did the same thing as I described. I have read that it could be the BCM, Ground Point somewhere, or the Ignition Switch. Where would the ground point be

Any ideas would be helpful

 

[palfaro]

My 2003 began working erratically a few months ago then a couple days ago it completely stopped working.

 

[Straycat_2012]

FYI, I experienced this failure with my 2012 Silverado Crew Cab. Gauges not working, including digital and the park, drive, reverse indicator. I turned off and back on several times, no joy. Drove to dealer because still under warrenty, turned off truck (dumb) and when service turned it on, the gauges magically worked. Only clue is we had a very stormy night and morning that blew rain everywhere.

The dealer tried getting a code (no soap). So they took note of mileage and said, if it happens again we'll cover it. I'm worried as I travel alot in my truck. But what are you going to do?

There's my story, just an FYI

 

[CarsRme]

I had this place rebuild mine. www.forelleco.com They rebuild it and send it back in 24 hours. With shipping I had mine back in four days, works like new!

 

[bbutcher85]

This is very common with Gm products between 2004-2007. Individual gauges sticking may require replacing a stepper motor (cheap and easy if you have the skill and tools). What you describe is most likely a bad solder joint on the instrument cluster circuit board. There are a number of surface mount resistors that often overheat and cause the solder connection to open up. This is also frequently the cause for the PRNDL display and some lights on the cluster to fail.

Take the cluster out and dismantle it. I suggest going to YouTube and search for GM instrument cluster repair to learn how to remove and replace the needles, and stepper motors.

Once you have the circuit board exposed, look for overheated resistors (black rectangular with silver bars on each end). There will be lots of them, but usually the larger ones (about 1/4 to 3/8 inch long) will be the culprit. If you touch them you often will see some tiny movement. Re-solder the two end connections using rosin core solder and a low power electronic soldering iron. If you do not have the tools or skills, there are a number of companies on Ebay and elsewhere that will repair it with 24 hour turn-around (plus shipping time of course) for under $100. If you destroy the cluster, dealers can get a new one for about $500.

If any individual gauges are sticking or failing, it is easy to replace the stepper motors, which can be purchased on Ebay for a few dollars each. All the gauges use the same stepper motor, which is driven by your Engine Control Module (computer) in the vehicle communicating with another computer chip on the cluster.

Be aware that the instrument clusters for different year models and other models of GM cars and trucks in the same year probably will be different and not interchangeable, so if you go to the junkyard for a replacement, make sure it is the same year and model. Even then, there seem to be some mid-year variations.

Since the resistors heated up causing the problem in the first place, it will probably occur again, but maybe not for a few years, and you can always fix it again.

Bob
Retired Electrical Engineer