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BCM Nightmare

2.2K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  redfix20  
#1 ·
2002 Impala 3.4L Base 123K

My frustration level is high with this car .
I started getting the no start/security light intermittent problem in 07. Only did it every six months or so. Then the radio stayed on once. Then the trunk lid servo would pop out of the blue. Then it started draining the battery if I left the battery connected. Did a lot of research.
Replaced the ignition switch, passlock sensor, and bcm (ac delco) Had bcm flashed at dealer.

Car was fine (although I had lost keyfob ability and alarm settings because the tech left it out when flashing bcm. I didn't go back because I knew more about it than he did) for a year .

Now , I get security light, service engine soon, alternator light and chime every several seconds, and ac compressor cycling. Door locks are sluggish, and dome light "strobes" when it is supposed to go out. Headlights at night will stay on longer when I shut off the car than they normally do. Sometimes coolant fan wouldn't come on in traffic.

Once when it did it . I pulled off the road and unplugged and replugged the three bcm connectors and it stopped for 80 miles and started again.

I took contact cleaner spray (smells like ether) and sprayed the heck out of the three plugs . No difference.

I have read that the female connectors in the plugs can get loose, and cause these issues, Someone also suspected a ground. Looking at the diagram I found a ground that is shared by several bcm connections.

My question is where do I start looking, and if it is a cheesy plug connection, are there parts to fix it or can they be disassembled to slightly crimp the female slides?

Where are the grounds for the bcm connected to?

I have had the car for a long time now and really don't want to replace it due to something like this, but hearing that chime every several seconds has forced me to make up new swear words . Any help is appreciated.
 
#3 ·
A friend of mine had extremely similar issues with his 2001 Bonneville. His focus was on the BCM as well (changed many of the same parts you did) but a service shop traced the issue to a wire underneath the air cleaner box was frayed and shorting out. That wire was fixed and the car has been operating flawlessly since.

I'm not saying you have the exact same problem but sometimes electrical issues are caused by the darndest things.
 
#6 ·
I think I may have found where this issue is coming from .
Through removal of each component mounted on the dash one by one and spraying contact cleaner in plugs and applying dielectric grease , I did the bcm first , then the headlight switch , and the instrument cluster . None of those made any difference .

Then , I pulled the radio .. and THERE WAS THE GROUND I WAS LOOKING FOR behind the radio . No , I'm not 100% sure it wasn't the radio and not the ground , but cleaned and greased the radio plug and removed and cleaned the ground behind it .

Hasn't done it since , but time will tell .
 
#7 ·
Long shot considering this is ten years later, but if you see this, did your issue ever end up being resolved by servicing the ground location behind the radio? I’m suffering from very similar symptoms as you describe above, with the addition of the radio not functioning due to being theft locked, and my scan tools aren’t don’t pick up the bcm during any scans
 
#8 ·
given the o.p. only logged onto the site for about 10 days, 11 years ago, no, you aren't going to get a response from that user.

But, you would only pull the radio and check/clean that ground ONLY IF it fixed the problem for the o.p.?
 
#9 ·
Well no, I’ve been considering putting in an aftermarket radio, even though the stock one is fully functional, because the issue (or issues) causes the radio to go into theft lock. My thought process is that an aftermarket stereo would not be subject to the theft deterrent system of the vehicle, and since it receives power and functions otherwise normally, especially if I reset the BCM which allows it to do so for about 10 minutes before all the electrical systems in the car start going bananas on account of whatever the problem is, it would be a good opportunity to get behind the dash and take a better look around for the problems source.

It’s a frustrating thing to deal with, but I purchased the car as an a to b vehicle so I can get to work while I finish fixing my primary car, so I’m both not super inclined to try fixing all the issues and don’t really have the space to do it either, but no music to deafen the exhaust, engine knock, and poorly shifting transmission is getting a bit dull.

if you’re curious, electrical symptoms are:

Nonfunctional electric door locks

Nonfunctional rear window heating element

Nonfunctional electronic trunk release b

Nonfunctional keyfob (confirmed keyfob is not dead and is programmed to car)

Constant cycling of the following warning messages: service vehicle, battery light, security light, coolant level low, change oil, as well as the airbag light, and multiple u1000 codes involving a class II data communication failure

Overheating, especially in traffic, confirmed this is because the electric radiator fans are not turning on at either the correct speed or at all when the engine hits temperature, and this results in a teeter totter between about 200° F and 230° F (not confidence inspiring)

Engine knock is either piston slap or a chewed cam lobe/something between a lifter and a valve, can’t be rod knock because it runs fine and has been the last 300 miles despite it being plenty noisy

and finally, goofy transmission shifting issues relating to a maximum shift adapt codes. So it’s kind of a headache of a car that I’m hoping maybe I can make slightly less of a headache in the short term. Thank you for the response by the way