Article Continued at TrueCar.comWhat is Dealer Holdback?
A TrueCar user recently asked the question, what is dealer holdback? We’ve consulted with our new car shopping and pricing experts to provide the following explanation:
Dealer Holdback is an amount paid to the dealer by the manufacturer for each new vehicle sold. It may be calculated as a percentage of Invoice Price or Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) including or excluding options, or as a fixed amount, and the calculation and amount varies across manufacturers. A typical estimate is 2 percent of the total vehicle Invoice, though the actual amount of the Dealer Holdback can actually range from zero to 3 percent of the total vehicle Invoice.
/ End ThreadEverything is negotiable in a car sale. It's up to the dealer, not you, how low they will go. I will gladly pay LESS for a car than the dealer paid if that's what they're offering. Again, by definition a deal requires both parties consent. Don't want to dip into holdback, don't. If someone else will, they get the sale.
Agreed. Great post.1. The holdback is irrelevant to the purchasing/negotiations process.
Quit trying to determine what a fair profit should be for the dealer. You would have to open up the accounting books to find out what all of the dealer's real costs are (rent, inventory, salaries, expenses, etc.). And even then, why do you think you can dictate a fair profit?
2. Let the market decide
Get a good starting point -- find out what the invoice price is for your car and see what others seem to be paying -- look at TMV on Edmunds or similar. Then get several quotes from different dealers, but do your homework -- see if the car you are buying is common or in short demand, see if the dealer is struggling to make their numbers or is doing just fine, etc. All this will determine which dealer will most likely give you the best price and why some dealers will be higher than others.
3. This is a buyers' market.
It has been for a long time now. Except for a few high-demand cars or temporary shortages, manufacturers have capacity to produce more cars than they can sell,
so there's usually plenty of supply and dealers are eager to clear their lots or order
and sell a car to keep up their numbers, keep their service side busy, and take profitable trades in. Manufacturers discount many of their cars to keep their market share and to sell more parts in the future.
So it pays to shop around and get the best price.
The best price is determined by the current actual market -- cars on the lots vs. actual buyers, as well as the perceived market -- buyers' perception of popularity of certain models vs. dealers' and manufacturers' expectation of short-term demand.
Never negotiate based on invoice/holdback/fair profit. It all really comes down to the basic supply and demand. Just get a few quotes, figure out which one is the best option and go with it. You might get something below invoice and even below holdback if you find a dealer that needs to get rid of inventory. After all, there's something called opportunity cost -- what would the dealer's profit be if the car does not get sold and ends up sitting on the lot for another 2-3 months? Let's say it is a 2010 in September of 2011 when the 2012 models are already out.
Remember that no one should be mad or insulted because they did not get a deal they wanted, and everyone should be happy about a deal that was struck since both sides agreed to it.
If you trade a car to another dealership, when they sell it, does your dealership then get the holdback, or is it just gone for both?One thing that you may not know about holdback: We only get holdback for cars that were factory shipped to our dealership. If we have to bring in a car from another dealer (Dealer Trade), we don't get that holdback.
I memeber that...... :hyper:Here's a thread I had started in the "Customers and the Outside" section several months ago. I think it was a great discussion:
http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f73/what-fair-deal-100408/
. I believe cars should be sold at a fixed price like everything else we buy.
Who said I was selling cars? I just really hate when people are ignorant. There needs to be some equality. I feel really really bad for car salesmen that get jacked around all day.CAPS LOCK!!!!!!!!!! Sounds like you really, really shouldn't be selling cars if you hate it so much. Just throwing that on the table for you.
That said, what about dealer fees? Where do they fall in to this picture?
I think he means documentation fees...... some dealers have others like advertising fees and such..Who said I was selling cars? I just really hate when people are ignorant. There needs to be some equality. I feel really really bad for car salesmen that get jacked around all day.
What do you mean dealer fees?
I think NYS regulates that documentation fee. Cant be more than $75. Which I kinda think is a bargain.we have a Doc fee, and have I agree with customers, it should be regulated and not allowed over 'SAID' amount.....
Again, it doesn't matter. Just add up the total price and compare to other dealerships.By dealer fees, I mean when the dealership charges you a flat rate for buying a car from them. Dixie Buick/Pontiac/GMC (I guess it's GMC/Buick now, huh?) and BMW of Fort Myers both wanted one when I was car shopping. This was a non-negotiable fee that they charged on every vehicle, new or used, bought through the lot.
"Hold Back" Is nothing more than a "Bonus" for the dealership.I'm just curious what the purpose of this is outside of just getting more money out of the customer.
I ordered my 00 Yukon before they started building them at $500 over invoice. I bought it on the internet from a dealer 60 miles away. I never stepped foot in the dealership until the unit was delivered. The only test drive I took was from a GM sponsored event months after ordering it.You want Cheaper cars? Google "Eye's Blind Car Purchase" No test drive, no Salesman to help you with your questions, no trade ins, No "Can I drive the Blue one, then I may order the Grey One" and No "Can I see/feel it first" And "NO TRADE INS"
Yes "Future Shop" works at much higher Mark Up's, but nobody question thier deals.
We used to do it as a mix of what you are suggesting -as consumers we got together. When I wanted to buy a fridge or something reasonably expensive we would get workmates and friends to buy something at the same time. Then we would take our list to major retailers and a couple of smaller ones. When you are going to buy three fridges, two stoves and couple of other appliances you get a different attitude from sales managers in the stores as well as much better pricing. We never charged our friends for doing this as we made sure we had saved enough on what we wanted to make it worth while. "Buying clubs" should be used more often.I think the issue is disingenuous advertising (surprising for a car dealer I know)
When a customer buys at invoice, they think they're getting it at cost. Which, I agree - wouldn't be a great deal for the dealership. The problem is the salesman tells the customer they are buying it for what they paid - which is a complete lie.
The best way to buy is to flip the power from the salesman to you. You do that by purchasing like the professionals do - requesting bids. All the high pressure, lies, and disrespect just goes away. Only consumers are stupid enough to walk into a store with a negotiable item sold in thousands of other stores and think they can make a deal.
It is always best to buy common often used items in bulk from "warehouse" type operations than the supermarket. people do shop around between supermarkets rather than ask for "pricedowns"It bothers me how some people basically just think that the dealership is just there to entertain them. No, its a living for people. The owners want to make money, like all business owners, so why shouldnt they make a profit on their customers? I dont see people going into the super market and trying to haggle down that loaf of bread or that gallon of milk. Percentage wise the markup is much higher than on a car so why not haggle the price down, they shouldnt be making any money.
Exactly. People shop around for lots of things. But according to some salesmen, we should simply "eat it" from whichever we go to first. So - if Safeway doesn't have it on sale, I'm not supposed to checkout Lucky's?It is always best to buy common often used items in bulk from "warehouse" type operations than the supermarket. people do shop around between supermarkets rather than ask for "pricedowns"