Trailer Wiring Connector (7-pin)

17472 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by eastcoasthd, Jan 24, 2015

DiverRick

Discussion Starter · Jan 22, 2015

I have a 2014 Silverado with all the trailering bells and whistles, and I am very happy with it pulling my 24ft travel trailer. With one minor headache.
In 2014 GM decided to install their trailer wiring connector upside down on the Silverado/Sierra.

The 7-pin connectors are designed so that after you plug in your trailer the flap comes back down on top of the plug and there is a small latch on the flap that hooks over a corresponding bump in the plug to prevent it from coming out.

With the new dual 4-pin/7-pin connectors, GM has them upside down so that the flap opens downwards which completely defeats the locking mechanism. On my set up, the weight of the wiring harness is enough to make it droop downwards just enough that it starts to become disconnected inside. I am constantly having to stop and push the harness back in tighter to reconnect everything.

Thankfully I have the integrated break control (love it) which instantly reports anytime there is a problem in any of the connections.
It seems like such a dumb thing, and an easy fix. My dealer has had nothing to offer, but I just can’t imagine I am the only one this is happening to.
I haven’t seen a 2015 so I don’t know if they’ve rectified this or not. I wrote a letter to GM after buying the truck but never got a response. I feel this is a safety issue because my trailer brakes & lighting system are constantly becoming disconnected.

Has anyone else experienced this? I can’t find any other discussions about it.

Save

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

Ed753

· #2 · Jan 22, 2015

WOW, interesting - seems like a pretty obvious screw-up, I think we have a couple test-trucks parked out back. I'm going to go look for myself, in part to see if it has been changed, and in part disbelief or the error.

:doh:

Save

vortec22

· #3 · Jan 22, 2015

My 2015 3500 has the flap opening up and lines up to lock the plug in just like it is supposed to. I am surprised that they would even make a socket with the flap hinged on the wrong side of the opening, something seems odd about this. Anyone else see this issue?

Save

Ed753

· #4 · Jan 22, 2015

I just looked at the 4 we have in the shop and they are all the same as you describe, but they are 2014's.

Is there anyway you can flip the entire socket over and put the 7-pin on the bottom, thus placing the door on top of the plug?

It still would seem though, if your harness is that heavy, wouldn't it still pull-out? (and maybe worse, because as it is now, the door helps hold the harness up)

Good Luck,
Ed

Save

Ed753

· #5 · Jan 22, 2015

vortec22 said:
My 2015 3500 has the flap opening up and lines up to lock the plug in just like it is supposed to. I am surprised that they would even make a socket with the flap hinged on the wrong side of the opening, something seems odd about this. Anyone else see this issue?

Does yours have the 4-pin on one side and 7-pin on the other?

His looks like this: (with the 7-pin on top)

See less See more

Save

eastcoasthd

· #6 · Jan 22, 2015

Ed753 said:
Is there anyway you can flip the entire socket over and put the 7-pin on the bottom, thus placing the door on top of the plug?
Good Luck,
Ed

I just checked my 2015 and the 7 pin socket cover is bottom hinged as well.

No bueno on flipping it around. Looking from the backside, the bottom of the module is flat, the top is round and the locking tabs are on the bottom as well.

See less See more

Save

eastcoasthd

· #7 · Jan 22, 2015

DiverRick said:
On my set up, the weight of the wiring harness is enough to make it droop downwards just enough that it starts to become disconnected inside. I am constantly having to stop and push the harness back in tighter to reconnect everything.

Sounds like the weight of your harness might be part of the problem. It shouldn't sag when plugged in.

How old is the harness connector? Are the sockets worn?

I just went and plugged mine in, grabbed the pigtail a foot or two from the end and shook the heck out of it and couldn't get it to release.

The whole thing sounds odd to me. Typically the pigtail hangs loosely from the trailer tongue eliminating the transfer of movement from the trailer.

Save

Mentat Bashar

· #8 · Jan 24, 2015

Someone with this issue should send a PM to the GM Customer Service rep here ASAP to see if this can be remedied with a service bulletin or recall to fix the connectors.

Save

Ed753

· #9 · Jan 24, 2015

Mentat Bashar said:
Someone with this issue should send a PM to the GM Customer Service rep here ASAP to see if this can be remedied with a service bulletin or recall to fix the connectors.

I happened to behind a Ram last night, it has the 7-pin on the bottom (door up) and the 4-pin on the top.

See less See more

Save

Mentat Bashar

· #10 · Jan 24, 2015

Ed753 said:
I happened to behind a Ram last night, it has the 7-pin on the bottom (door up) and the 4-pin on the top.

Our '11 Grand Cherokee had it side-to-side. My concern was if OP's wiring harness keeps working loose and coming out it's a hassle to stop every so often by the side of the road. This increases the risk of something happening whether it's pulling over on the shoulder or if it happens in traffic.

There are enough people out there that don't know how to tow properly that this is something that doesn't need to be added to the mix to begin with.

Save

eastcoasthd

· #11 · Jan 24, 2015

Ok, so I replied to this thread several days ago with some suggestions and pictures that might help the OP resolve his issue. Well that reply is gonzo! Not sure what the F is going on with that crap lately? What evs

DiverRick said:
On my set up, the weight of the wiring harness is enough to make it droop downwards just enough that it starts to become disconnected inside.

This is a problem! THE WEIGHT OF THE TRAILER HARNESS SHOULD NOT CAUSE IT TO "DROOP" AT THE SOCKET.
This has zero to do with the positioning of the socket cover!

The primary means of the two connectors locking together is by internal friction (think, a tight fit). The external locking tab on the harness connector / socket cover is the secondary lock.

A properly sized and set up trailer harness should have enough slack to allow for articulation of the tow vehicle and trailer. If done properly there should be little to no movement at the socket connection when driving down the road and or maneuvering.

To the OP. You might consider something like this...

Mentat Bashar said:
Someone with this issue should send a PM to the GM Customer Service rep here ASAP to see if this can be remedied with a service bulletin or recall to fix the connectors.

Mentat Bashar said:
There are enough people out there that don't know how to tow properly that this is something that doesn't need to be added to the mix to begin with.

There's a very good chance a few that have posted in this thread might be part of that group.

Ed753 said:
I happened to behind a Ram last night, it has the 7-pin on the bottom (door up) and the 4-pin on the top.

You don't say...

I just happened to be behind a brand spankin new F150 today...

This might cut the legs off this thread :fall:

See less See more

Save

eastcoasthd

· #12 · Jan 24, 2015

Ed753 said:
WOW, interesting - seems like a pretty obvious screw-up, I think we have a couple test-trucks parked out back. I'm going to go look for myself, in part to see if it has been changed, and in part disbelief or the error.

:doh:

Wait..........
Did you just say something negative about a Ford product

:lmao:

Save

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month