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The dealer would have done it for a reasonable $60, but I went ahead and did it myself this time and saved about half that for the filter and oil. I rotated the tires and checked the brakes, checked for hub leaks, etc. (I probably could have gotten a free car wash from the dealer now that I am thinking about it...) I was bored, and the funny noised from my dash stopped so there was no reason to go to the dealership when it was a pretty day to change the oil. I made a note in my manual about the oil change and I put the synthetic sticker in a visible place under the hood.

I switched to the Mobil One synthetic oil. Does anyone else use this in the 5.3L engine? If so, does anyone notice a difference other than the longer interval?. They claim 15,000 mile intervals which makes it worth it to me. I'm not sure how to reset my oil service monitor to reflect that.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Home/Homepage.aspx


"I change my oil every 3,000 miles, or when I get bored." -Hank Hill
 

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I use Mobil1 Extended performance as well. I can't tell any difference, but then again, I've used Mobil1 since she turned 3k miles. I want the best for my truck and that stuff seems to keep the engine lubricated! I change it whenever the DIC tells me to which is 8-9k miles. I feel better doing it that way.

To reset the DIC is easy. Turn the truck to on without cranking it. Then pump the gas pedal 3-4 times quickly. The DIC should display "oil resetting". When the light goes off, turn the truck off and you're done.
 

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I use Mobil1 Extended performance as well. I can't tell any difference, but then again, I've used Mobil1 since she turned 3k miles. I want the best for my truck and that stuff seems to keep the engine lubricated! I change it whenever the DIC tells me to which is 8-9k miles. I feel better doing it that way.

To reset the DIC is easy. Turn the truck to on without cranking it. Then pump the gas pedal 3-4 times quickly. The DIC should display "oil resetting". When the light goes off, turn the truck off and you're done.
I've figured out how to reset, but don't I have to do something when I put synthetic in so it can adjust it's intervals?

Everything seems to be in the owners manual but this particular piece of info and the instructions on how to turn on the damn cargo light.
 

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I use it in my 4.8L. I don't use the extended performance, I use the regular Mobil1 synthetic and then follow my oil life monitor. I changed mine on Saturday.

Is the oil filter in the same spot on the 5.3L as the 4.8L? Right next to the drain plug (driver's side) near the transmission. It's super easy to get to (especially compared to my Saturn, where it was on the intake side of the engine against the firewall above the halfshaft) but it's totally vertical! What a pain when you go to remove it. You unthread it a bit, then it gets covered in oil. Unthread some more more oil and this goes on for quite a while. I think next time I'm going to pop a hole in the bottom with a screwdriver and hammer. What do you guys do?
 

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I've figured out how to reset, but don't I have to do something when I put synthetic in so it can adjust it's intervals?
No, there's nothing you can do. I feel better following the OLM with synthetic in all of my cars. :yup:

Everything seems to be in the owners manual but this particular piece of info and the instructions on how to turn on the damn cargo light.
For mine, I have the steering wheel controls, so I just go to oil life and hold the arrow buttin down. Mine a 2004 as well, so it's older and different. When my Silverado was new to me, I had to stop and pull out my owner's manual to figure out what a certain button did. it was the one right above the fog light button and it lit something up on the dash. It was my cargo light! I've never had a truck with a cargo light before. :eek: The first generation S-10s were not so feature laden.
 

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Is the oil filter in the same spot on the 5.3L as the 4.8L? Right next to the drain plug (driver's side) near the transmission. It's super easy to get to (especially compared to my Saturn, where it was on the intake side of the engine against the firewall above the halfshaft) but it's totally vertical! What a pain when you go to remove it. You unthread it a bit, then it gets covered in oil. Unthread some more more oil and this goes on for quite a while. I think next time I'm going to pop a hole in the bottom with a screwdriver and hammer. What do you guys do?
Yes, and it is extremely aggravating!! I just put on some plastic gloves and hope for the best. I normally get some warm oil to flow down my arm anyway.

The plug is just as annoying- it goes straight back. You have to guess how far the sludge is going to shoot out and try to position your container in just the right spot. I'm never right though and end up cleaning up spots on the driveway.
 

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When my Silverado was new to me, I had to stop and pull out my owner's manual to figure out what a certain button did. it was the one right above the fog light button and it lit something up on the dash. It was my cargo light! I've never had a truck with a cargo light before. :eek: The first generation S-10s were not so feature laden.

Whenever someone tailgates you at night, push that button. They freak out! Guaranteed way to get people off your ass! :D
 

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Yes, and it is extremely aggravating!! I just put on some plastic gloves and hope for the best. I normally get some warm oil to flow down my arm anyway.
The first time was super messy. Saturday, I had a sacrificial rag, that went in the trash with the filter. I was lucky it wasn't messier, though.

The plug is just as annoying- it goes straight back. You have to guess how far the sludge is going to shoot out and try to position your container in just the right spot. I'm never right though and end up cleaning up spots on the driveway.
I lift the drain pan up and hold it so that it'll catch the oil no matter whan, then set it down in a good spot. But I have to watch it for a bit and re-adjust after the flow as subsided a bit. I made the mistake of not holding the pan up with my friend's '87 Bronco II. It holds about the same amount of oil and the drain plug is the same way. I've never changed oil on anything with more than 4L before that. More oil means it comes out faster. I know that now. :eek:
 

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I've figured out how to reset, but don't I have to do something when I put synthetic in so it can adjust it's intervals?

Everything seems to be in the owners manual but this particular piece of info and the instructions on how to turn on the damn cargo light.
So question for ya, when you figure out how to turn the cargo light on, can you check to see if the light will turn off on its own like how the interior lights do?

On my old 96 Silverado you could leave the cargo light switch on and the light would come on when you opened the door and shut off soon after on its own. In my new truck, the cargo light won't shut off on its own, you have to manually turn it off. I have been wondering which it will do on the new 900's.
 

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Best place for oil/filter info is
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
A bit overwhelming at first.
So overwhelming that I refer to him as BobIsTheOilNazi.com. And I still buy Fram when it's on sale. It hasen't me or millions of others.

Also, the Oil Life Monitor uses an algorithm to to determine when to set the light. It has no clue as to the true condition of the oil.
Unless someone has put water or anyhting else into the crankcase, it has a pretty good handle on how the minimum required grade oil has behaved over it's life since the last reset of the OLM. I trust it better than simply 3months/3000miles that the oil companies have been pushing since the invention of the funnel. :rolleyes: How come Europe does not submit to this convention? They have essentially the same oils and engines as us, but they go much, much longer between oil changes.
 

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GM Oil Life System Resetting
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. Change the engine oil as soon as possible within the next 1 000 km (600 miles). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset.
If the system is ever reset accidentally, change the engine oil at 5 000 km (3,000 miles) since last oil change.
How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System

The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system.
If the vehicle does not have a Driver Information Center (DIC), do the following:
  1. <LI type=1>Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine OFF. <LI type=1>Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times within five seconds.
  2. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
If the vehicle has a DIC, do the following:
  1. <LI type=1>Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine OFF. <LI type=1>Press the MODE button until the DIC reads OIL LIFE LEFT/HOLD SET TO RESET. <LI type=1>Press and hold the SET button until 100 percent is displayed. You will hear three chimes and the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will go off.
  2. Turn the key to OFF.
If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
 

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This is a great thread. Thanks for the much needed info.

I'm running Mobil 1 and waiting to see the results.
Our local dealership kept our Chevy in a synthetic blend for two years, absolutely gratis.
I've been treated very well by Chevrolet and by my Chevrolet vehicles.
 

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Also said:
You are right that the system uses algorithm to determine oil life but GM oil life system is the active compared to Ford and Nissan and......

We actually capture the # of cold starts, average engine temp., rpm's and this will determine the life of the oil fairly accurately.

old systems can be reset and never catches up to itself. New system will figure it out and percentages will drop quicker after reset if oil is old.
 

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This is a great thread. Thanks for the much needed info.

Typical GM.
There's absolutely no information about oil in the owners manual.
This is the first time I've heard that I'm supposed to change oil.
I mean really, that change oil light has been flashing for the last 15,000 miles and I had no idea what to do with it.
And here's to wishing you are in the car when it finally gives way! Maybe you'll even be close to a bridge with a big drop to put some icing on the cake! :p:

Don't like the thread? Then go ruin someone else's!
 

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This is a great thread. Thanks for the much needed info.

Typical GM.
There's absolutely no information about oil in the owners manual.
This is the first time I've heard that I'm supposed to change oil.
I mean really, that change oil light has been flashing for the last 15,000 miles and I had no idea what to do with it.

While entertaining...please recall the Tech Forum rules please!

Grazie!
 

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Okay, so the oil life monitor has no idea that synthetic is in the crankcase.....so I'll just go the 10,000 miles and start checking the color.
Mine was still medium to dark brown when I drained it on Saturday. Same with the oil in my Mom's 2005 VUE. The VUE has had synthetic since it's first oil change. My mom's OLM only seems to come on about twice a year. She does not drive very much. Just to work and back and that's about a 25-30min commute and mostly in the highway. She doesn't do too much else with it normally. That Ecotec will last forever! :yup:
I suspect that my truck might have had synthetic before me too, the previous owner seemed to take very good care of it. :yup:
 

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You are right that the system uses algorithm to determine oil life but GM oil life system is the active compared to Ford and Nissan and......

We actually capture the # of cold starts, average engine temp., rpm's and this will determine the life of the oil fairly accurately.

old systems can be reset and never catches up to itself. New system will figure it out and percentages will drop quicker after reset if oil is old.
It's just that so many people believe that the OLM does some kind of "chemical" test to determine the oil life. When, as mentioned, the 'puter uses various data gathering inputs and works the magic formula without actually "touching" the oil.
 
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