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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The front suspension on my 2000 Grand Prix GTP is starting to show its age. Most concerningly, I'm hearing a clicking sound when I stop, go, and turn. I'm going to get the wheels off this weekend and wanted to know what I should be looking for. I know a few things to watch for - loose caliper bolts, endlinks, tie-rod ends, etc.

What else should I check and how can I pinpoint the cause? Of course, given the cars age I probably need to replace everything, but my budget demands this happen slowly, so I want to start with the most desperately needed parts.
 

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Odds are, Saabr is right, although CV joints should click more on turning rather than stopping/starting. They also will cause vibration when going in a straight line if they're bad. Check the boots. If they're torn, the CVs are probably shot. Other than that, I wouldn't start replacing stuff just because it has a few miles on it. Check for leaky struts while you're looking too.
 

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CV joints are #1, but you'd probably notice grease up under there/inside the inner wheels etc. Wheel bearings are a possibility.
 

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I can't tell you the last time I ever sold a CV joint or axle when the boot wasn't torn...

They usually don't wear out on GM's, unless the boot is torn!

Wheel bearing, or brakes maybe...hard to say without physically hearing it.
 

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Sway bar endlinks. Try grabbing the shaft part between the joints and jerking it up and down. If you feel any play then they need replaced.
 

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Sway bar endlinks. Try grabbing the shaft part between the joints and jerking it up and down. If you feel any play then they need replaced.
Excellent point, something I failed to mention....the stabilzer bars break on these...hollow tube type...


It's possible the sway bar launched...

#10284146 sway bar
2 #10284149 bushing
#88912264 end link kit...:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I checked the swaybar the other day with the car on the ground and felt no cracks. Would it be obvious? I should note that I have the thicker GMPP unit. The install was a total disaster in which I belatedly realized the new swaybar (which is solid, I believe) came only half of the bushings I needed,and wound up reusing some of the old bushings. For that reason, I'm hoping that much of this is just those old bushings coming back to haunt me, and not a ruined swaybar as a result of my incompetence.

I haven't replaced the CV's yet. I don't see any crack in the boot, but there is some grease around. I just don't want to spend a ton of money and time replacing one thing only to find the culprit is something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Checked things out yesterday. As expected, everything looks...old. I replaced the wron endlink bushings, but that didn't solve my clicking problem. The driver's side wheel has some vertical play, which I've heard can mean a worn out hub. This true? The control arm bushings also look like they've seen much better days, but I want to avoid that job if possible.

Ironically, my CV's look pretty decent on close inspection. The grinding noise I'd heard on hard turned turn out to be nothing more than a loose plastic panel in the wheel well :doh:.
 

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The driver's side whe
If it has play when grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel and shaking it is either the wheel bearing or ball joint. If it doesn't have any play side-to-side then it's the ball joint. If it does have side-to side play and up and down play then it's the wheel bearing.

Wheel bearing=hub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry to revive a dead thread (and the wonderful pic above), but I pulled the GTP out of the garage this weekend and was reminded there are still issues here that I want to resolve.

Since we've last met, I've bought new KYB adjustable struts, lowering springs (barely any drop though, so I don't have vibration issues) and new bearings. I've also replaced the endlinks on my sway bar and affirmed that it's not broken.

The result is I have a Grand Prix that handles better than it ever has, but still lacks that ephemeral "tightness" that a car has when it's new, that directness that gives you confidence while going fast down a twisty road.

Of course, my car isn't new - it has 90,000 miles on it. I want to freshen things in the order of biggest impact on front end tightness, and don't know where to go from here. My next thought was to replace both control arms, since I clearly need ball joints anyway, and the bushings are likely worn out as well. But what else? Should I be looking at tie-rods? Obviously, a good alignment won't hurt, as I have just done struts, but I'd like to take care of everything front end related at once, so I don't have to get the car aligned three times.
 

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I have owned numerous W-body cars over the years. I too have had clicking noises and clanking noises on many of my front ends when the miles crept up over 100K. These cars are notorious for strut bearings and mounts, which it sounds like you already replaced, brake noises which if cheap pads and rotors are used often result in a clicking or grinding noise when they wear in place, tie rod ends and wheel bearings. I have never lost a CV joint on these cars and never had to replace any bushings. The other issue I have had and seen is tranny mounts and the upper torque strut engine mounts on 3800 engines, especially the supercharged motors. They are pretty soft from the factory on these torque laden engines and eventually rip these mounts up. I installed a set of aftermarket improved 3800 upper dogbone mounts in my 00 Impala 3800 and the difference was very noticeable. The tranny shifted better. The engine had much less vibration and actually felt more responsive and the front end felt tighter when accellerating and stopping plus the strange clanking noise was gone when I hit the go pedal. I also noticed less vibration on the highway going 65 MPH too!
Here is the link to the Delrin upper mount:http://www.cheetahonline.com/products/c3019.html
Also check out this 3800 site:http://www.3800performance.com/Merc..._Code=MSP-MM&Category_Code=EC&Product_Count=0
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's a lot of good info, thanks.

Did you replace the tranny mounts with stockers or did you go to poly units? What about where the engine mounts to the cradle - ever replaced that?
 
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