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FS: 1993 Lumina Euro coupe

6227 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  bouda
Figure I might post this here on GMI. I originally posted it on website. A lot of people sounded interested but were too far away. I'm asking $400 for it.

Selling because of ongoing electrical issue. Car will intermittently at times cut out on the highway (kind of like a bad miss, doesn't die or even come close to dying or anything like that. Doesn't throw Check Engine light) and it idles high in the morning. The car for some reason will not control the IAC motor until you've put it in drive and travel maybe 100ft. Then it idles down and runs like a new car, but if you don't start travelling it will sometimes idle at 1500RPM or so for several minutes on cold start-up. There is some electrical issue I can't find. I ran new grounds for the sensors and replaced the PCM. This took care of the problems for several months, but now they're coming back.
But that's the bad part!

The steering and suspension are very very tight still. Rear monoleaf is not sagging a bit.

238,000 miles, but both the engine and transmission are sound mechanically. I drive the car 60 miles 6 days a week for work and it gets about 26mpg mixed city/highway. Engine sounds great and smooth and the 4T60-E shifts flawlessly and converter clutch locks up fine. Both are original and never rebuilt or tampered with other than regular maintenance.

The interior is decent. The headliner is not sagging but has some nicks in it. Headliner material is cheap at Hobby Lobby/JoAnn. The material has come off of the sunvisors, but you can pick those up salvage for around $30. The rest of the interior is fine. Carpet just needs cleaned. The top dash piece is neither cracked nor warped anywhere. Not even at the defroster vent!
There isn't a rattle in this car. Neither interior nor exterior.

All electrical accessories work. All the lights. Stereo. Power windows. Power locks. Power Trunk. Cruise. The problematic turn signal switch on these cars I replaced a couple months ago. The power window on the driver side only goes down about halfway and stops. It's come out of it's tracks and just needs put back in. The driver door does not lock. The power button works on the door works, but I took out the lock rods since the lock switch itself is broken and wouldn't unlock. It's cheap if you feel you need one. I didn't ever need it.

Other than that this is actually a nice car. People don't believe me when I tell them the mileage because it drives so good. It glides down the road smooth, striaght, and quietly.[/b]

Here are pictures!!!!

Car doesn't sag. Steering and Suspension both feel like like new!

No, the white Z34 behind it is not for sale :)

I'll vacuum up that messy carpet and clean things up in general. Interior is in good shape, carpet could use shampooed.

Is that an unwarped top dash piece? It sure is!

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Where are you located?
A small town about 10 miles west of Wichita, KS. It's just off US 54.
I know what the problem is. It is the ECU. My roommate was doing the same thing. I gave GM $80 put it on the engine scope & that was what it is. Try a junk yard I got 1 for him for $50. When it does it on the highway it losses power & dims light NO CEL's. I could not figure it out, but I know what it os. Just remember to take the PROM chip out of the old one & put it the new one.
Already replaced the ECU with an AC Delco unit. Didn't fix it. Swapped the PROM chip and everything. No change.
BTW, if anyone out there wants it, like 300 bucks will take it.
Already replaced the ECU with an AC Delco unit. Didn't fix it. Swapped the PROM chip and everything. No change.
BTW, if anyone out there wants it, like 300 bucks will take it.
This is what was wrong with his. I also have that same motor in my 1992 chevy beretta w/ 220,000+ miles. she still runs very strong & clean.:confused:
I had her for 6 years in Aug 08. Never any big issues. I not getting rid of her till 1,000,000,000 miles or bust. :drive::drive::drive:
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