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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, The Mighty Spectra (plural of Spectrum) has rolled over to about 700 terrorizing-the-citizens miles.

My rule of thumb has been to do O&F at 1,000 or so on new-new cars.

Two questions:

1. When do you change oil and filter on your new cars/trucks?

B. When (IF) do you go to synthetic oil?

Is the first O&F too soon to go to synthetic, since there may be further seating-in for engine parts to do?

Thanks for all opinions, informed and ill-informed. :yup:
 

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I just did my car for the first time at 4,300 miles and changed both the filter and went to synthetics. Im sure its not what some people will say to do, but Im sure the engine will be just fine.
 

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Um...why are you replacing the oil at 1k miles?
You dont have to go to synthetic if you dont want to.
Wait till the recommended interval to change the oil, change oil and filter.
 

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I go 1000 miles put in regular oil and then switch to synthetic at 6000 miles. After synthetic I change the oil every 6000 miles. I think its a good to do the first one at 1000 in case of any metal shavings.
 

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I did my first oil changes:
On my Suzuki, at 1,000km
On my Sonoma, at 5,000km
On my Canyon, at about 14,000km when the OLM light indicated.
All just as reccomended by the manufacturers in my manuals.
 

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My wifes car, was @ around 500 miles. My '05 Canyon @ 1700 miles, and the current '07 Canyon @ 700 miles. I like to drive it enough to get the metal shavings (if much of anything) in the filter at first, and then redo it fresh but I refuse to take it too long. The '05 Canyon IMO was too long.

The Mali has Synthetic, the Canyons were/are Dino. I will switch to Synthetic with my current truck pretty quickly though.
 

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My Subaru manual didn't give a different "break in" interval and to just start with the normal 3750 miles (for turbo cars or severe use) or up to 7k for light use (might be 7500, I can't remember).

To make myself feel better, which my salesperson said was just fine, I went ahead and chanegd it at 1k. I went ahead and used Mobil 1 and a Purolator PureOne filter which I've been using every 4500 or so since, though I've been using Valvoline Synpower because I bought a surplus at buy 1 get 1 free :D
 

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OK, The Mighty Spectra (plural of Spectrum) has rolled over to about 700 terrorizing-the-citizens miles.

My rule of thumb has been to do O&F at 1,000 or so on new-new cars.

Two questions:

1. When do you change oil and filter on your new cars/trucks?

B. When (IF) do you go to synthetic oil?

Is the first O&F too soon to go to synthetic, since there may be further seating-in for engine parts to do?

Thanks for all opinions, informed and ill-informed. :yup:
I change the oil and filter the moment I get the new one home and I use Mobil 1. Why would you be concerned with using a synthetic too soon. To have that concern is like saying that the millions of engines that are filled with Mobil 1 at the factory don't break in properly and that is just silly!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I change the oil and filter the moment I get the new one home and I use Mobil 1. Why would you be concerned with using a synthetic too soon. To have that concern is like saying that the millions of engines that are filled with Mobil 1 at the factory don't break in properly and that is just silly!
Thanks for your thoughtful commentary.

The pros and cons of putting synthetic in at early mileage have been discussed at some length in the above posts and the links provided in same.

Everyone has an opinion, just because you have one doesn't mean you are correct.

I don't know about the millions of engines filled with MOB1, but I know that it takes more than 700 miles to run in an engine properly. Perhaps they run those engines in at the factory. Why don't you ask them?
I'll probably be switching to syn somewhere between 5,000 and 10,000 miles, but today I got the O&F changed at 700+ miles, dino Chevron 10W-30.
 

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Thanks for your thoughtful commentary.

The pros and cons of putting synthetic in at early mileage have been discussed at some length in the above posts and the links provided in same.

Everyone has an opinion, just because you have one doesn't mean you are correct.

I don't know about the millions of engines filled with MOB1, but I know that it takes more than 700 miles to run in an engine properly. Perhaps they run those engines in at the factory. Why don't you ask them?
I'll probably be switching to syn somewhere between 5,000 and 10,000 miles, but today I got the O&F changed at 700+ miles, dino Chevron 10W-30.
I have more than just an opinion, I have facts about the subject after having worked for General Motors Product Service Engineering for 33 years. There are too many opinions floating around that do not have a basis in fact, they are based on rumors or other bad information. General Motors doesn't run their engines at the factory any more than any other manufacturer. I had close association with experimental assembly operations and many hundreds of engine builds that were run on dynos and in fleet service. The engines with Mobil 1 broke in just fine and piston ring sealing was never an issue. These engines were disassembled after their particular duty cycle was over so I speak from experience. As you can see, I have more than an opinion, I have experience that most people do not have to back up my posting. Take it or leave it. As I said, millions of GM, Chrysler, BMW, and Porsche engines break in just fine on synthetic engine oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would like to thank one and all for your opinions.
 

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I would like to thank one and all for your opinions.
LAMRONH, don't run off just yet.

Without getting into it, the safe, useful, smart, general purpose rule is to start with the specifics if any, in your owners manual concerning the first change. ( Not to be confused with 'running' break in requirements )

When present, this sometimes is written in a vague, but terse style that usually appears to have passed a sort of committee review, including legal.

Sometimes its just one sentence and many times is made more useful (or superseded) by accurate and specific background information (when available) as well as an intelligent reading between the lines.

The truth of the matter is the best choice or range of options depends on the specifics involved. There is no one size fits all (well) -rule to use.

Since the general arguments in favor of 'early' (still subject to determination) are better known lets just consider some of the arguments against it that could apply. (Again, it depends on the actual details -none could apply here as well.)

Sometimes an OEM will use a doped up or reoptimised initial fill that besides covering other aspects unique to first fill requirements will also provide an advantage for break-in that you are not going to duplicate easily on your own.

Almost the same, OEMS still sometimes provide a better first filter.

In the case of many of the Asian imports this is almost an invisible 'program' and is not well known.

In these kinds of situations and assuming normal 'pipeline' transit times for the new vehicle there is every reason to believe that running the first filter and the first fill out somewhere between 1/2 to all of the severe service interval is the way to go - as long as the vehicle information does not specify something shorter.

So...... clear as mud.

Actually I do want to be clearer about one thing ; definitely not suggesting anything specific - more about a look-over method.

1K unless specified or somehow captured by the 'clock' running out ( go off the build date - not your sale date) - is likely to be short for 2007/2008 production with no 'net' advantage. ( ALL of this is really about best tradeoff)

I f you don't wan to put any more effort into figuring it out beyond looking at the owners manual for some clues then 1/2/ to 2/3s the severe will minimize your losses against the 'perfect' information/decision 'best' . (Edit - late add - respecting both the time and mileage lengths ie which ever comes first)

Use the build date as your first intervals starting point.
 

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Thanks for all opinions, informed and ill-informed. :yup:
I appreciate you putting this comment in for me.

I would like to thank one and all for your opinions.
I'm also glad you said this before I gave my opinion.

Since I rounded off the drain plug on my Elantra, I've decided to help the environment by not changing my oil. When it gets a little thick, I just add a touch of kerosene or diesel. I do change the filter when it starts rusting through, though. So far, so good.
 

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I think some additional information on synthetics would be helpful here. Synthetic engine oil offers superior performance in several areas such as:1. Extreme heat, engines that are working extra hard pulling heavy loads, turbo charged engines or even engines in a very hot enviroment. Petroleum based oils will carbonize in extremely hot conditions. Carbon doesn't lube very well and can be a major contributor to early turbo charger failure. Synthetic lubes do not have an issue with extreme heat. 2. Extreme cold, put a quart of synthetic engine oil and a quart of petroleum engine oil in your freezer over night. Pour each one out after 24 hours and see how much better the synthetic flows. In cold weather the synthetic will obviously flow to your engines bearings alot quicker providing superior lubrication. 3. Dyno testing on engines show increased horsepower and torque on synthetic engine oil. Why is this possible? The synthetic engine oil lubricates better and reduces friction. Friction is not good, thats what wears your engine and steals horsepower and fuel economy. Anytime you can reduce friction that is a good thing! Todays petroleum engine oil is far superior to the oils available to us in the past. Even though it is good, synthetics are still far better. These are the reasons I run synthetic lubes in everything I have, from Briggs and Stratton to Corvette. Now, are you sure you still want to run regular petroleum oils?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well there ya go, several definitive or non definitive answers.

Build date was 1/07, manual says break in for 500 miles with varying speeds.


IROC, you can get the new roundhead wrenches, made in chiner, available at (great) wall (ofchina)-mart.
 

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I just did my car for the first time at 4,300 miles and changed both the filter and went to synthetics. Im sure its not what some people will say to do, but Im sure the engine will be just fine.
What I did with my wife's Envoy XL. Did the first oil change at 4000 miles, switched to Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic. It's what I have done with all my trucks as well. Seems to work for me, but I'm sure everyone will have thier own ways of doing the 1st oil change for a car.
 
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