Bravada pinion seal

2391 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Johnny P, May 31, 2008

fondo

Discussion Starter · May 24, 2008

Hi all, I'm new to the site and have a some questions re-guarding the replacement of the rear diff pinion seal on an 1993 oldsmobile bravada. 1)What does the nut need to be torqued to and do I need a new one.2)Do these rear ends have crush sleeves and if so do I need to replace it if I'm just doing the seal job. 3)What special tools do I needs. 4)More specifically, when do I need to measure the torque specs and in what sequence. This is my first rear end r&r so I'm kinda unsure at the moment and would like to take all the extra precautions necessary as I'm aware of all the things that might go wrong if overlook something. I do have a chilton manual but the section(s) outlining this particular area are kinda general and vague so I would appreciate any help. Also I did search and found a 96 bravada diff service fsm, I was wondering if this is the same as a 93?
Thanks again and sorry for a lengthy first post.

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nailhead425

· #2 · May 24, 2008

fondo said:
Hi all, I'm new to the site and have a some questions re-guarding the replacement of the rear diff pinion seal on an 1993 oldsmobile bravada. 1)What does the nut need to be torqued to and do I need a new one.2)Do these rear ends have crush sleeves and if so do I need to replace it if I'm just doing the seal job. 3)What special tools do I needs. 4)More specifically, when do I need to measure the torque specs and in what sequence. This is my first rear end r&r so I'm kinda unsure at the moment and would like to take all the extra precautions necessary as I'm aware of all the things that might go wrong if overlook something. I do have a chilton manual but the section(s) outlining this particular area are kinda general and vague so I would appreciate any help. Also I did search and found a 96 bravada diff service fsm, I was wondering if this is the same as a 93?
Thanks again and sorry for a lengthy first post.

You'll need:
1) a torque wrench that reads in inch-pounds

Yes they use a crush sleeve, if you don't change anything you won't need to replace it. Tighten the pinion nut until there is 15-25 inch-pounds to rotate the pinion gear. (closer to 15 with old bearings, 25 with new)

In a HP application you can use shims to eliminate the crush sleeve.

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nailhead425

· #4 · May 26, 2008

fondo said:
Hey thanks for the speedy reply. I have one more question though, do I need to put the vehicle on stands when I measure the torque (before and after replacing seal)? The chilton manual doesn't say so. Can you elaborate on this a little more for me?
Thanks again...

Yup. I'd even go so far as to remove the brake drag as well. It doesn't take much to get that in-lbs rating, fyi. Just remember to tighten it until it takes that much torque to turn the pinion gear, so the torque on the nut will be more.

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nailhead425

· #7 · May 27, 2008

fondo said:
Ok, now I understand what I'am doing. I was confusing myself but now I think I get it. It takes so much torque to push the flange back on the pinion shaft but after that you need the "measured amount" to turn the pinion assembly in order for the preload to be correct, right Any how it only took about 14" lbs. to turn the pinion. Will that do?

Bingo.

14in-lbs is really close, but if you have lots of miles, I'm sure it will be okay.
If you hear any noises on acceleration or coast, recheck it.

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