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I never realized that this could be a big problem that others have had. I have a 2007 gmc sierra duramax 2500hd standard cab. a year ago, i had a problem with my glow plugs so I took it to the dealer and they said their was a recall on the glow plugs and proceeded to order them. since that time, my batter was going dead. during the summer it was a few days to a week, during the winter or cold times, it wouldn't even last a day. now it's even worse. it won't even last a day. I have dual batteries and dual alternators in it. when it first started this problem, I called the dealer and they said that what they repaired had no bearing on the truck going dead. from what I read, there is a glowplug control module that can cause it. now that the truck won't even stay charged for a day and the fact that there isn't a block heater that I can even find on it, a new problem has shown up. the dome light used to stay on so I just left it on dome override so that it wasn't lighting at all. now the truck is saying that the driver door is open at all times. the right rear tire sensor is shot that it says their is only 16lbs of air in it. the dealer told me that they would need to do a preliminary diagnostic for $89 first before they do anything. at the time, i'm financially strapped and can't throw that at it. I guess I'm going to have to continue to jump the truck and hope that sometime after winter I'll get a chance to take it in and then have to replace the batteries because I'm sure this will kill them if it hasn't already. I've never had so many problems with any gm truck. oh, and the thing is also complaining about 4-wheel drive needing servicing. I think this truck may be a lemon with the other issues that I've had. I bought it new, the front wheel fell off, the front axel ate the gears for 4-wheel, that the dealer fixd under warranty, the other I had to claim on my insurance because the dealer said that the wheel fell off because of side impact damage. there has never been any damage to the side of it as long as I owned it and I'm just glad that I was driving from my front yard to my back yard and turned a corner around the house and bang, the front end hit the ground. this has just been crazy for me.
 

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bigvette
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Join Date:Apr 2003
Location:DFW
Posts:11Re: Battery goes dead


I remember when a TH400 was near bullet proof for even a lot of big-blocks, but these old M30 4L60's are right at their max torque rating, just bucking for a beating. Sure wish GM would recall it and put in that new six speed, (how much torque is that rated for, btw?)

The 6L80/6L90 are rated between 258 LB FT to 580 LB FT depending on how they are built. The main difference is the number of lined clutches in each clutch pack.
 

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I think i might have a similar issue? I have a 2007 GMC Yukon and over the last two months i've had a dead battery symptom. While looking under the hood the first time this happened i moved the wires on the battery and all of the sudden the lights came back on and it started fine.
It happened again a few weeks ago but this time i moved the negative battery wire around and again the lights came on but the battery was drained enough that the truck wouldn't start. Today again the truck was dead, i moved the negative wire around with no luck so i moved on to the positive cable and the lights came on and it started, i also noticed the positive battery terminal was warm?

Any suggestion? Do i need to replace both cables?
 

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I think i might have a similar issue? I have a 2007 GMC Yukon and over the last two months i've had a dead battery symptom. While looking under the hood the first time this happened i moved the wires on the battery and all of the sudden the lights came back on and it started fine.
It happened again a few weeks ago but this time i moved the negative battery wire around and again the lights came on but the battery was drained enough that the truck wouldn't start. Today again the truck was dead, i moved the negative wire around with no luck so i moved on to the positive cable and the lights came on and it started, i also noticed the positive battery terminal was warm?

Any suggestion? Do i need to replace both cables?
You need to clean and tighten the battery cables.
 

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I am the mother of 3 young girls and I don't know much about cars. I do know that you should be able to leave your doors open long enough to vacuum out the interior or pack for a trip without the battery going dead. I have a 2007 Yukon Delani XL. I have been very frustrated with the "intermittent dead battery" since the day we bought it. Literally, day 3 after delivery, the dealership had to send someone out to jump the battery. Since then, if I don't drive the vehicle for a few days and then leave doors open (usually while packing for a trip) for 10-15 min. the battery will be dead by the time we get the kids and luggage loaded and are ready to leave. We then have to unpack the vehicle to access the jump cables and then jump the battery. This happened again this weekend as we prepared to go out of town. As I began to research the issue, I am disturbed to find so many GMC customers experiencing similar issues. I spent several hours on the phone with the local dealer and with GMC customer service; only to find that there has not been a TSB or recall issued for my vin # for this issue. Although, they have been issued for other 2007 GMC models. Please advise how I should proceed, and links to information that may be helpful. If past experience repeats itself; when I get to the dealership and they will have no idea what I am talking about and will offer an expensive solution that does't fix the problem.
Thank you.
 

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READ the note on the bottom of my previous post:

THis is another for Hos' and Burbs:


Check YOUR VIN# I guess if yours is in that range it is a recall!
If the last 8 digits of your VIN # is beween 7J177482 and 7J270240 or between 7R205597 and 7R297218 then you may need to have your vehicle's BCM reprogrammed, if your VIN# is not within those then yours is not effected.

Reprogram to address the dead battery issues.
[align=center] Document ID# 1904142
2007 Chevrolet Tahoe - 4WD

Subject: Service Update for Inventory and Customer Vehicles-Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Inoperative and Battery Rundown-Expires with Base Warranty #07007B - (02/13/2007)
Models: 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Equinox, Suburban, Tahoe

Vins affected...
Year Division Model From Through 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe 7J177482 7J270240 7R205597 7R297218

also note..

# 07033, document id#1903112. This is also a recall for battery rundown, seems to be the same thing as ZX posted. However, the VIN numbers are different. Here are the TAHOE VINS this includes (per dealership), 7J100002-7J315831, and 7R100001-7R347487.

ZX states...
Correct, 07033A corrects a similar issue as 07007B just uses different software that is compatible with the different BCM's.

ALSO NOTE:
That the VIN #range is noted for Tahoe/Burbs NOT Silverados So call the GM /Chevy 800 222 1020 to verify
yours is included!

************************************************** ******************

( I will note that above sez the campaign
expired in 07 but mine was done under warranty 7/8/09)
I can also say that my trucks VIN # was NOT in the
numbers I posted above so who the heck knows???????
I will note that my truck did not have any battery/charging problems.

Service order states: Perform recall 07033
Programmed BCM Code 406 ca
 

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My 07 GMT900 Silverado LTZ is on it's third battery and I have 49K miles on it. I had the dealer do all the same usual checks and programming. It's garage kept and usually driven only a few miles every other day, which I know that isn't ideal for recharging the battery. However, the 88 pick I replaced was driven in the same manner and only had 1 battery replaced in 188K miles. As I stated in another BB, I think the combination of more electronics, variable energy saving alternator output and compact, powerful battery construction (read: thinner plates for economy and space) combine for this perfect storm. I swear my older batteries are far heavier than the newer ones but I digress..
 

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In my workgroup we have three GMC Savanah's. All have a battery discharge problem. All 2011's delivered within 6 months time. I spoke with the GMC dealership close to work and they say no one has complained at the dealership, but me. I have done all my own checks on the vehicle in reguards to current draw. I am told by a mechanic that the vehicles have sensors that will stay on for 20 30 minutes after shut off. Also the sensors will "wake up" when anything is disturbed. i.e. door opened, switch turned on etc. I have my own theory about the problem. It has to do with the newer charging systems on GM vehicles. The voltage varies as the vehicle is used. Mine will range from 12.2 volts(which is actually discharging a 6 cell, lead/acid battery) all the way over 15.7 volts. Older vehicles simply charge constantly at a voltage higher than the voltage potential of the battery. Typically about 14.4 volts. With the constant voltage, the current just varies based upon the power needs of the vehicle. With the new varying voltage system, many accessories will commonly not even work properly including cell phone chargers, GPS units and power inverters. I do not know the particular electrical components of a charging system like this, but I believe that the charging system itself is causing a current draw on the battery, at randon times, while the vehicle is off. In the old system it would be the bridge rectifier diodes that convert AC to DC. If anyone knows of a practical fix, please let me know...........
 

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Sorry, Have not read the thread in detail ... But had a 1999 Cadillac Deville with a variable speed HVAC fan. Turns out these fans are direct wired to the battery (not on a curcuit that goes off after the can is turned off). The fan must of had a bad transistor and the leakage current went up enough to drain down the battery in a similar manner. This is something that I discovered and a few service techs were not familiar with it.

Don't know if the design could be the same after all these years. The HVAC fan worked fine, just had a large current in the off state.
 

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I am sorry to hear all of the problems associated with batteries. After 5-1/2 years, the Interstate in my 98 Grand Caravan started to act up. Upon hitting the ignition, I would get that low "grunt" then the motor turned over. Making a mental note to have the battery changed, Friday, I started the car, got the same problem and drove off. Looked down and saw my tach and speedomenter were zero; the other items were sort of acting up (the overhead information station showed a "home" icon instead of the std temp, etc...readouts). I diving it around a bit, the tach and speedometer returned so the circuitry must have cutoff the features to prioritize the motor starting. Got it over to my local gas station and had a new Interstate installed. Should be good for another 5 years.
I agree with florencefamily, via 40 years of driving, that a battery should not go dead if the interior lights are on for a short length of time. Previously though, I had Pep Boys batteries in the same van (and the van was newer then) and had problems with starting it. Nothing changed but a different battery supplier.
BTW, the battery in my 2004 Monte Carlo is the original (knock on wood). Maybe lucky.
 

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I have 2008 Buick Enclave. Over the past 2 years I have woke up to a dead battery and had it either jumped by my AAA or towed to the dealership. They have put 3 new batteries in the car during that time. The lastest dead battery was 2 weeks ago. The dealership asked that the towing company not jump start the car so they could put a device on it to learn where the drainage was coming from, it's the OnStar system. It's not shutting off when I turn off the car. I'm very upset because now they tell me the new system (part) is 3 weeks out and will be almost $900.00. The car is no longer under warranty. Anyone have a similar problem that the dealership is failing to find and just keeps putting battery after battery in your vehicle.
 

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I have a 2007 newer style Silverado 4x4 crew cab 5.3 L.

I have an intermittent problem with the battery going dead dead dead overnight. The vehicle has been to a GM dealership many time and the problem is non detectable. When the problem appears, the draw on the battery occurs it draws 3.5 amps.This is enough to have a completely dead battery overnight to the point that a dome light does not come on. The minute the checking starts the problem is non existant and then disappears for days. I could be a month without a re-occurrence then this occurrence can happen every day for a while. I have installed an extra battery with a solenoid and a button in the dash to boost start when the battery is dead. This has been going on for more than 18 months or so. I want to trade the vehicle but cannot give this problem to another person. Help please!
 
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