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I have a 2007 half ton 4 door GMC Sierra. My battery goes dead if the vehicle is not driven within a few days. I have tested the battery and the tester says its good and also the altenator I tested and it says that its charging properly. My brother has a 2009 GMC Sierra Denali pickup and also a 2006 Escalade that both go dead if they are not driven with a relatively short period also. Dealership said that it could be the onstar or the computer but I don't know if I buy that. I am worried because I will be going on a trip and my pickup will be parked at the airport for 10 days and I know that it could be dead when I get back. Any suggestions because this new of vehicle shouldn't be having this problem, plus my brothers do it too.
 

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You need to have a mechanic install an ammeter and check the parasitic draw on the vehicle when it is turned off. Something must be staying on and bringing the battery down.
 

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You need to have a mechanic install an ammeter and check the parasitic draw on the vehicle when it is turned off. Something must be staying on and bringing the battery down.
I have seen several things cause this cell phone chargers, Garmin systems, one Tahoe the customer had an old bag phone that would pull down his battery over two days so it would not start. I had a pigtail harness for trailer lights cause a drain as well. If they test for a drain they can track it down.
 

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If you have a GMT-900 truck this TSB prob. will apply to you:
(My 07 truck was updated during my last oil change visit)

TSB 07033b may be your problem:

Battery Goes Dead At Times - keywords charge charging crank current dead drain draw excessive inop inoperative int intermittent lo low load no nostart nocrank parasitic start voltage - (Feb 26, 2009)

Subject: Battery Goes Dead At Times
Models: 2007 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT
2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2007 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this bulletin.
Condition/Concern:
Some customers may state that the battery goes dead at times. The concern is very random and doesn't seem to have a set pattern. When the vehicle returns to the shop, the technician may be unable to duplicate the concern.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Note: Only apply the information to 2007 model year vehicles. A separate PI (Preliminary Investigation) has been created for the 08-09 model year
If you experience a vehicle that has an intermittent battery draw, please follow the instructions below and then review the template below that lists all related PI's and Bulletins. If it becomes necessary to contact Technical Assistance, please record the results for all the PI's and Bulletins that apply to your vehicle prior to calling.

When vehicle is towed into the shop, please record the static voltage of the battery by using a DVOM at the battery posts before charging the battery or performing any diagnostics.
Perform a parasitic load test as listed in SI (See Example Document Id: 1741191)
Perform and record the results for all PI's and bulletins that apply to your vehicle in the following template.
Bulletin or PI number
Description

08-06-03-008.
Information on Intermittent Battery Drain Diagnostic Tips and Recommendations
06-06-03-013C
BCM Update for RVC
PIT4613A
Check Mega Fuse
PIT4050E Ckts (6815 or 6817) Shorted or the ISLPS/IS Lamps fuse may blow
PIT3984A Rear Doors Will Not Unlock / Battery Draw
AIT3236 Battery Cables

07033B Battery Rundown
07007C Remote Keyless Entry Inoperative & Battery Rundown
PIT3385E Roof Beacon Switch Left On Causing Battery Draw
06-06-03-011B Hum or Buzz Noise From Rear of Vehicle and/or Possible Dead Battery (Check Fuel Pump Relay)
07-06-03-002B Information on Inspecting Top Post Battery Cable Bolts, Clamps, and Nuts During Pre Delivery Inspection
PIT4412A Vehicle Will Not Crank / Start At Times/ Aftermarket theft relay
09-08-44-001 US8/US9 Radio
PIT3971A Multiple Electrical Concerns due to wiring in B pillar
06-08-44-032B Rear DVD Screen Blank/Inoperative, Speaker Pop Noise, Battery DrawNav Screen Flashing,

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
 

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THis is another for Hos' and Burbs:


Check YOUR VIN# I guess if yours is in that range it is a recall!
If the last 8 digits of your VIN # is beween 7J177482 and 7J270240 or between 7R205597 and 7R297218 then you may need to have your vehicle's BCM reprogrammed, if your VIN# is not within those then yours is not effected.

Reprogram to address the dead battery issues.
[align=center] Document ID# 1904142
2007 Chevrolet Tahoe - 4WD

Subject: Service Update for Inventory and Customer Vehicles-Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Inoperative and Battery Rundown-Expires with Base Warranty #07007B - (02/13/2007)
Models: 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Equinox, Suburban, Tahoe

Vins affected...
Year Division Model From Through 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe 7J177482 7J270240 7R205597 7R297218

also note..

# 07033, document id#1903112. This is also a recall for battery rundown, seems to be the same thing as ZX posted. However, the VIN numbers are different. Here are the TAHOE VINS this includes (per dealership), 7J100002-7J315831, and 7R100001-7R347487.

ZX states...
Correct, 07033A corrects a similar issue as 07007B just uses different software that is compatible with the different BCM's.

ALSO NOTE:
That the VIN #range is noted for Tahoe/Burbs NOT Silverados So call the GM /Chevy 800 222 1020 to verify
yours is included!

********************************************************************

( I will note that above sez the campaign
expired in 07 but mine was done under warranty 7/8/09)
I can also say that my trucks VIN # was NOT in the
numbers I posted above so who the heck knows???????
I will note that my truck did not have any battery/charging problems.

Service order states: Perform recall 07033
Programmed BCM Code 406 ca

Good luck!
 

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I had a 2007 Buick Allure/LaCrosse that had the same problem.
I spent an entire year boosting it, or towing it, or just leaving it at the dealership so they could do tests etc. to find out what was draining the battery.

Needless to say, they never found the problem/cause.

I even did what "dr.gizmo" stated above and had the mechanic install an ammeter to check the parasitic draw on the vehicle when it was turned off...they would leave the ammeter on for days with the vehicle sitting outside in cold temperatures and they still found nothing.

Seeing as the vehicle was so new and was not reliable, I ended up trading it in for my 2009 G8.
 

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Had the same problem with my 2007 Sierra, they said the same thing about maybe it's Onstar, blah, blah, blah... Long story short after the fifth visit, ammeter hooked up overnight finding nothing, and the battery "passing" their tests. Finally I told them they could keep the truck, my battery "failed" their test, they replaced the battery and I haven't had that problem in over a year now.
 

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Seems to be a growing problem down here in Australia as well now with the latest 2009 GM Holden Commodores?
 

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I have a 2007 half ton 4 door GMC Sierra. My battery goes dead if the vehicle is not driven within a few days. I have tested the battery and the tester says its good and also the altenator I tested and it says that its charging properly. My brother has a 2009 GMC Sierra Denali pickup and also a 2006 Escalade that both go dead if they are not driven with a relatively short period also. Dealership said that it could be the onstar or the computer but I don't know if I buy that. I am worried because I will be going on a trip and my pickup will be parked at the airport for 10 days and I know that it could be dead when I get back. Any suggestions because this new of vehicle shouldn't be having this problem, plus my brothers do it too.
Hi! 1-8-10 I need to report a solution to the "dead battery syndrome". On the third try, my dealership finally "Replaced BCM 12.9 and programmed", and my car starts perfectly now. Yay!
 

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I have to say that intermittant dead batteries are the most frustrating things to deal with, for both sides. A customer typically buys a new car to not have problems, so when their newish vehicle keeps having a dead battery, it is a huge headache. For us, getting a vehicle in that we cant find anything wrong with is a huge waste of time and equally as big a headache.

The bulletins sonjaab listed simply list other bulletins, and if nothing else, show the complexity of finding something that could cause a dead battery, when you dont have a dead battery. In some cases, we have batteries that just go bad. In others, we have something drawing it down, and yet another issue is the car simply not cranking, which people usually attribute to a dead battery. We have found some battery cables with excessive resistance causing a no crank condition, we have found modules that dont "go to sleep", we have found loose or poor grounds and/or bad connections, we have spent hours jacking around to find a hidden aftermarket power amp that wasnt install correctly so it never turns off, and the hits just keep on coming.

As stated already, the best and first step is to check for power draws, and if all else fails, just go down the list of things you have previosuly found. We had a Yukon XL in the shop 7-8 times over the course of a year, numerous tow ins and a customer who was easy to deal with but becoming increasing agitated with each occurance before we actually had it happen at his house, and a tech and my Svc Manager actually drove to his house to check it out. The negative battery cable was very hot to the touch and after checking the voltage drop (basically means loss of voltage from one point to another due to excessive resistance) it lost 6 volts from the battery to the ground point. The truck wouldnt even respond with only 6v of power. We repalced the cable and that was 2 yrs ago with no other issues.

I actually have installed dual battery kits on several customer vehicles, as well as my 08 Sierra (I have a bit of stereo equipment in mine) just to safeguard against intermittant battery drains. Another story is a guy with a Yukon that was constantly going dead, he had TV's GPS, A Laptop type system, dual headrest tv systems, amps, radar detector, you name it, he had it. Finally convinced him to spend a little money to support the electrical system rather then spending everything he had to add stress to it, and we installed a dual battery set up and again havent had a problem since.

Anyway, the key to getting a dead battery vehicle fixed is to one way or another find a way to leave it with the shop until they figure it out. Dropping in and wanting to hang out is the worst way to get that done, although sometimes that cant be helped. Let the dealer know you are serious about getting it fixed, and are willing to help rather than ranting and raving about the situation, and chances are they will find it. That isnt directed at anyone in this thread, just general advise from someone who has been there and done that. Take care.
 

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Just had this issue pop up in my 07 Z71 two weekends ago. Dealer says there is a 12mA draw on the system, but that that amount is within specs. My question is would this be enough to light my bulb when I hooked a test light up to it myself in order to verify if there was a short or not?

Evidently my BCM is current, too so there was nothing that they were able to find. I'm thinking they had to have updated that when I had my tranny rebuilt after just 15k miles, because otherwise how does an 07 model truck have the updated software version?

I remember when a TH400 was near bullet proof for even a lot of big-blocks, but these old M30 4L60's are right at their max torque rating, just bucking for a beating. Sure wish GM would recall it and put in that new six speed, (how much torque is that rated for, btw?)

And what about my warranty? I only have about six months left now under the initial 3/36k bumper to bumper warranty, will this issue be carried over either under the 100k power train warranty or at least honored due to it now being documented at the dealer, even though they couldn't find out why my battery completely drained overnight in less than 24 hours time?
 

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I have a 07 GMC PU that I cought new. After about 9 months the battery would go dead in about 10 hours. After numerous jump starts, and failed attempts to correct the problem, my dealer finally reloaded some computer program stating that the radio, although not playing, was being left on. After this fix, the vehicle was trouble free for about a year. After sitting over the weekend, Friday night to Monday morning, the battery went dead again. Again no problems for about 4 months. Then after sitting for 10 days the battery is dead again.
There are no "ad ons" in the truck, no additional stuff plugged in, everything in the truck is as it was the day I drove it off the lot. It has 27050 miles on it. So as you can see I don't log on a lot of miles. AND that may be part of the problem. 6 miles to work, 6 miles home, occasional trip but not over 50 miles.
The dealer now has the truck and is doing amp draw tests on each of the circuits. Their data logger indicates that about every 3 hours, there is a huge milliamp draw on the system. They are now in the process of trying to ID the circuit.
Everyone talks about "change the battery". Sorry I'm old school and I don't buy that crap. I would be more receptive to the concept if the "dead battery syndrome" weren't quite so random. BUT because of the randomness of the battry failing, I'm thinking the problem is with some device that turns on. Not sure I understand the 3 hour random surge either.
What I really find interesting about his whole situation is that when you talke with ANY dealer they say, "ya I recall seeing or hearing of that" or they deny every experiencing the issue. YET when you log onto Google and do a little search, MY GOD! there is a ton of information and complaints about his subject spreading across a wide variety of GM vehicles. So why has GM not wrapped their arms around this problem and addressed it?
You would think that with the amount of complaints that are being posted, GM would address this problem to keep is loyal fan base.
Every vehicle I have owned, all plus 50 of them, have been GM's except for one volkswagon and on short live Ford.
1965 I was offered a Field Service position with GM. I should have taken it so I could have assisted in rectifying this issue.
Good luck to all with this problem. If my dealer finds a solution I will post it.
 

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I have a 07 GMC PU that I cought new. After about 9 months the battery would go dead in about 10 hours. After numerous jump starts, and failed attempts to correct the problem, my dealer finally reloaded some computer program stating that the radio, although not playing, was being left on. After this fix, the vehicle was trouble free for about a year. After sitting over the weekend, Friday night to Monday morning, the battery went dead again. Again no problems for about 4 months. Then after sitting for 10 days the battery is dead again.
There are no "ad ons" in the truck, no additional stuff plugged in, everything in the truck is as it was the day I drove it off the lot. It has 27050 miles on it. So as you can see I don't log on a lot of miles. AND that may be part of the problem. 6 miles to work, 6 miles home, occasional trip but not over 50 miles.
The dealer now has the truck and is doing amp draw tests on each of the circuits. Their data logger indicates that about every 3 hours, there is a huge milliamp draw on the system. They are now in the process of trying to ID the circuit.
Everyone talks about "change the battery". Sorry I'm old school and I don't buy that crap. I would be more receptive to the concept if the "dead battery syndrome" weren't quite so random. BUT because of the randomness of the battry failing, I'm thinking the problem is with some device that turns on. Not sure I understand the 3 hour random surge either.
What I really find interesting about his whole situation is that when you talke with ANY dealer they say, "ya I recall seeing or hearing of that" or they deny every experiencing the issue. YET when you log onto Google and do a little search, MY GOD! there is a ton of information and complaints about his subject spreading across a wide variety of GM vehicles. So why has GM not wrapped their arms around this problem and addressed it?
You would think that with the amount of complaints that are being posted, GM would address this problem to keep is loyal fan base.
Every vehicle I have owned, all plus 50 of them, have been GM's except for one volkswagon and on short live Ford.
1965 I was offered a Field Service position with GM. I should have taken it so I could have assisted in rectifying this issue.
Good luck to all with this problem. If my dealer finds a solution I will post it.
If you would like us to follow up with your dealer just let me know!

-Jared Duane
GM Custome Service
 

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I have a 07 GMC PU that I cought new. After about 9 months the battery would go dead in about 10 hours. After numerous jump starts, and failed attempts to correct the problem, my dealer finally reloaded some computer program stating that the radio, although not playing, was being left on. After this fix, the vehicle was trouble free for about a year. After sitting over the weekend, Friday night to Monday morning, the battery went dead again. Again no problems for about 4 months. Then after sitting for 10 days the battery is dead again.
There are no "ad ons" in the truck, no additional stuff plugged in, everything in the truck is as it was the day I drove it off the lot. It has 27050 miles on it. So as you can see I don't log on a lot of miles. AND that may be part of the problem. 6 miles to work, 6 miles home, occasional trip but not over 50 miles.
The dealer now has the truck and is doing amp draw tests on each of the circuits. Their data logger indicates that about every 3 hours, there is a huge milliamp draw on the system. They are now in the process of trying to ID the circuit.
Everyone talks about "change the battery". Sorry I'm old school and I don't buy that crap. I would be more receptive to the concept if the "dead battery syndrome" weren't quite so random. BUT because of the randomness of the battry failing, I'm thinking the problem is with some device that turns on. Not sure I understand the 3 hour random surge either.
What I really find interesting about his whole situation is that when you talke with ANY dealer they say, "ya I recall seeing or hearing of that" or they deny every experiencing the issue. YET when you log onto Google and do a little search, MY GOD! there is a ton of information and complaints about his subject spreading across a wide variety of GM vehicles. So why has GM not wrapped their arms around this problem and addressed it?
You would think that with the amount of complaints that are being posted, GM would address this problem to keep is loyal fan base.
Every vehicle I have owned, all plus 50 of them, have been GM's except for one volkswagon and on short live Ford.
1965 I was offered a Field Service position with GM. I should have taken it so I could have assisted in rectifying this issue.
Good luck to all with this problem. If my dealer finds a solution I will post it.
This happened to my truck last year too. The dealer reprogrammed the radio as that was a potential cause. They also replaced the main fuse block on the firewall and that was the culprit. They said this is a common issue on the GMT900's.
 

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I have been having these same issues with my 2002 envoy for the past 2 years and it happens very speradically, GM could not figure it out they changed my computer module first off, it still it did it, then went on to change my ignition switch, still happened, they then they changed something else as well, still happened so they un hooked my command start and air conditioning and it still happened, I have since changed my battery twice and still doing it, getting very frusterated. I have printed off some of the suggestions and am going to ask my boss what he thinks. If there is any other suggestions about this I would really like to hear them. Thanks
 

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I have been having these same issues with my 2002 envoy for the past 2 years and it happens very speradically, GM could not figure it out they changed my computer module first off, it still it did it, then went on to change my ignition switch, still happened, they then they changed something else as well, still happened so they un hooked my command start and air conditioning and it still happened, I have since changed my battery twice and still doing it, getting very frusterated. I have printed off some of the suggestions and am going to ask my boss what he thinks. If there is any other suggestions about this I would really like to hear them. Thanks
I dont know if it would be this or not but I had an onstar module that would dial up at night when the car was off draining the battery.
 

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This may of some help:

I have an 2007 Avalanche with 34,000 miles on its third battery. Same symtoms most of you are experiencing.

I also have a 2002 Range Rover with the same problem. In the case of the Rover it turns out that the remote key entry is the problem. The key works at 315Mhz which, coincidentally, is the same frequency as garage door openers, data transmitters, computer routers and more. Near my home there are many of these devices. I can only guess the the avalanche uses this same frequency or one close to it. An inexpensive receiver can detect side band ( harmonics ) of the carrier quite easily and spurious noise.

When the antenna for the remote key sees one of these signals, the Rover computer turns on for two minutes ( 850Ma ) and then returns to sleep for 20 seconds ( 20Ma ). This cycle runs A 950CCA battery down in short order as the signal continues.

When you move your car to another spot the signal may not be present. Rover has made a new receiver with a tighter bandwidth rejection, which solves the problem.

When your car visits the dealer the signal may not be present. If you are going to perform a load test for a drain problem, you should use a recording amprobe and leave it on the car for 24 hours. You can then see the size of the load, duration and time of day.

I hope this may help.
 

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I like the idea of the recording CLIP-ON ammeter.

The introduction of very complex electronic systems ... and subsystems many computer or remotely controlled has significantly complicated problem isolation.

The actual problem may be schedule or sequence dependent, externally stimulated ... or simply randomly intermittent.

Hopefully the recording meter can capture the timing and magnitude of the offending drain ... initially starting at the battery ... then hopefully "splitting wiring branches" can lead to the ultimate offending component.

However, with complex interconnected computer systems ... more than ONE components (modules) may be "turned on together" resulting in several interrelated simultaneous parallel loads. Just thinking out loud.

Yikes ... that would be a bear to chase down! Obviously, a worst case scenario!!

==============

Another thought ... thermal imaging video. Let the vehicle sit at ambient "soak" while monitoring battery drain with recording clip-on ammeter to detect drain occurrence/event.

IF drain has been on for at least 30 minutes at above 3 amps drain (36W) ... the villain component(s) should be above vehicle ambient temperature. This should also work within 15~20 minutes after the "shorting" event has ended.

The temperature difference might be as little as 2°F or 3°F ... although, it might be larger depending on magnitude of drain, duration, mass of the culprit device(s), and associated heatsinking.

If you think I am kidding ... try thermal imaging (or touching) a recently turned off dome light.

Something inside a door panel (dash board) may require longer "on times" ... maybe an hour or 2, to be detected through the door or covering.

I developed a similar technique to isolate shorts for repairing printed circuit card/boards and other electronic assemblies. Good grief ... that was almost 30 years ago.

It just occurred to me that IF ... the drain is in the range of 15 Amps (more watts = greater temperature rise) ... to measure the temperature rise in the various cable harnesses back to the faulty component(s) if the drain is high enough.

Temperature sensitive liquid crystal film from Edmunds Scientific was my low cost solution:

Temperature Sensitive Liquid Crystal Sheets 12"x12" 68 - 77°F $24.95
Temperature Sensitive Liquid Crystal Sheets 12"x12" 77 - 86°F $24.95
Temperature Sensitive Liquid Crystal Sheets 12"x12" 86 - 95°F $24.95
Temperature Sensitive Liquid Crystal Sheets 12"x12" 95 - 96.8°F $24.95
Temperature Sensitive Liquid Crystal Sheets 12"x12" 95 - 104°F $24.95
Temperature Sensitive Liquid Crystal Sheets 12"x12" 104 - 113°F $24.95
Temperature Sensitive Liquid Crystal Sheets (pkg of 6 / 1 ea temp range) $70

http://www.scientificsonline.com/temperature-sensitive-liquid-crystal-sheets.html


Of course a thermal imaging camera is faster and covers a larger area ... but at a much higher costs (maybe a rental?).

Just some experiences. Hope they help.


I'll let the PROs judge for themselves ...

BTW, with the correct temperature range I have also helped "isolate" a few muscle/soft tissue and joint issues.
 

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My father-in-law is having similar battery issues on his 1999 GMC C2500 350.

First thing happened is battery icon came on. Voltage gauge showed charging 14+ volts DC.

Checked battery and it looked good.

Then it quit charging, and verified using a volt meter to ensure that it had indeed quit charging.

Replaced battery ground cable, serpentine belt, and cleaned all positive cable connections and insured the fusible cable from battery + to alt was good. voltage test of battery + connection to main fuse block tested good for voltage, but did not test for current draw.

Had alternator checked and it was supposedly bad so it was replaced.

Still had on again / off again battery icon and sometimes gauge showing charge and sometimes not.

Replaced the battery but still had the same problem. Went back to the place where I bought the Alternator and they said when tested it was the battery.

Went across the street to where I got the Battery and their test showed bad alternator.

Bought a second alternator and the gauge showed charge, but the battery icon kept doing the off and on.

Wiith battery fully charged the icon goes out and the gauge shows 14 + volts charging. After driving, the battery icon comes on and eventually the voltage gauge starts dropping. Now with the fully charged battery the icon is on and the gauge shows no charge and I think I may have burned up the alternator.

Does anybody have any suggestions for what might be wrong or whatelse needs to be checked? Thanks
 
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