6.5TD - how reliable compared to the old 6.2?
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Back away Lio,
The Stanydine pumpes are awhful. We had to replace a handful, before they were delivered new. The Moduals are bad.
The early 98's cracked blocks after "Piston Spay Cooling" was introduced
Fuel Mileage went from 30 imp/MPG in a 2wd 1/2 ton 6.2L, to 22-24 imp. MPG in the same truck 6.5L Turbo.
The Stanydine pumpes are awhful. We had to replace a handful, before they were delivered new. The Moduals are bad.
The early 98's cracked blocks after "Piston Spay Cooling" was introduced
Fuel Mileage went from 30 imp/MPG in a 2wd 1/2 ton 6.2L, to 22-24 imp. MPG in the same truck 6.5L Turbo.
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2,431 Posts
As long as you remember it is no Duramax, keep it cool and cared for, it is plenty reliable. 94-96 trucks are reportedly pretty reliable, but not powerful.
I wouldn't seek one out though. Duramax trucks are becoming more affordable.
I wouldn't seek one out though. Duramax trucks are becoming more affordable.
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Thanks to you two!
nailhead's answer was positive enough to make me want to take a test drive, which I did tonight. The truck fits pretty well my criteria and runs very well. The discussion has now moved to:
http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f19/looking-used-truck-advice-too-64039/
(again, MANY thanks for all the help and advice!)
nailhead's answer was positive enough to make me want to take a test drive, which I did tonight. The truck fits pretty well my criteria and runs very well. The discussion has now moved to:
http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f19/looking-used-truck-advice-too-64039/
(again, MANY thanks for all the help and advice!)
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Let's say I cross fingers with my current pump (which seems to work well). Should it go kaput some day, what kind of replacement cost am I looking at?
Or is it the kind of failure where it either fails when it's still almost new or doesn't fail at all? (I'd like that, since this one has been running for a while!)
Another question for you: some guy told me the front suspension on that Z71 K1500 I'm considering would be a bit weak for my 7' Fisher plow... what do you think? (Seems to me my halfton Ford handles it OK, this truck should be pretty equivalent, no?)
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18,488 Posts
My experience with these engines is a 6,2 L in a Blazer pre-GMT 400 model mid 80's driven for about 220 000 km.
Not a lot of power, but excellent economy. Ran well on the heating oil for most of it's life (say 200 000...). The 700R4 that was behind it needed to be rebuilt. The engine was very hard for the owner of the truck to get fixed. GM mechanics at dealer had no idea how to handle this motor and as a result the owner had a lot of driveability (various sensors) and starting issues (glow plug system).
Owner bought factory service manual (about the size of a New York phone book) and the mysteries of the electronics were solved...
Currently the truck sits next to my black 90 900 Turbo in my field, but the engine is basically good.
I would think 6,5 Turbo to be a lot more powerful (195 hp vs 130) but there is an economy penalty. I'd hope reliability improved.
I've heard issues with injector pumps. Injector pumps as you know are precision made parts since you can't really use an O-ring at 100 bar + injection pressures and the timing must be perfect. But really you only will get "raped" by repairing it if you don't know who to go to. If you have a problem take it to a diesel specialist and it will cost but not too much. Or try and score one in the junkyard, occasionally you find them.
Not a lot of power, but excellent economy. Ran well on the heating oil for most of it's life (say 200 000...). The 700R4 that was behind it needed to be rebuilt. The engine was very hard for the owner of the truck to get fixed. GM mechanics at dealer had no idea how to handle this motor and as a result the owner had a lot of driveability (various sensors) and starting issues (glow plug system).
Owner bought factory service manual (about the size of a New York phone book) and the mysteries of the electronics were solved...
Currently the truck sits next to my black 90 900 Turbo in my field, but the engine is basically good.
I would think 6,5 Turbo to be a lot more powerful (195 hp vs 130) but there is an economy penalty. I'd hope reliability improved.
I've heard issues with injector pumps. Injector pumps as you know are precision made parts since you can't really use an O-ring at 100 bar + injection pressures and the timing must be perfect. But really you only will get "raped" by repairing it if you don't know who to go to. If you have a problem take it to a diesel specialist and it will cost but not too much. Or try and score one in the junkyard, occasionally you find them.
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The Cummins is great. But the truck is such junk :lol:
I'm familiar with the Fords (powerstroke) via rental units, I don't like them at all... but never had to fix one (obviously)
I'm familiar with the Fords (powerstroke) via rental units, I don't like them at all... but never had to fix one (obviously)
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The advantage of a 6.5TD is price.
A 12V Cummins in a good truck will be expensive, and 94.5 and newer Power Strokes are the same.
Most people think the 6.5s are junk, so they are generally cheaper. Tractor pullin' guys avoid them because of the IFS and lower output. RV folks go for the D-Max.
Just remember that the 6.2 and 6.5 are indirect injection and thus will get hot quickly and that is really bad. Get a new fan and HD fan clutch, also make sure the radiator is the biggest available. As long as you aren't going crazy with the fuel, they last a long time.
But, when new, they were rated at 190hp and 380 lbs ft of torque, so you won't lose power at altitude like you would with a gas engine, but you don't have 600 lbs ft either.
A 12V Cummins in a good truck will be expensive, and 94.5 and newer Power Strokes are the same.
Most people think the 6.5s are junk, so they are generally cheaper. Tractor pullin' guys avoid them because of the IFS and lower output. RV folks go for the D-Max.
Just remember that the 6.2 and 6.5 are indirect injection and thus will get hot quickly and that is really bad. Get a new fan and HD fan clutch, also make sure the radiator is the biggest available. As long as you aren't going crazy with the fuel, they last a long time.
But, when new, they were rated at 190hp and 380 lbs ft of torque, so you won't lose power at altitude like you would with a gas engine, but you don't have 600 lbs ft either.
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Tihis is what Fisher quick match has to say.
"Recommended snowplow prep. package whenever available. Classic Style Only (2nd # in model # is 0 not 5) example: K10903. Refer to label in glove box for model number. Not for use on extended cab vehicles with diesel engines."
As for the truck, if you do purchase it, I would recommend an external PMD such as one of these. http://www.heathdiesel.com/P/HDP1280/
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doh: If you had to put a plow on a nice truck... a truck that you'd want to keep for a long time, of which you'd want to take very good care of (in the following years) and which is in good shape at the moment (has never plowed)...
what measures (if any) would you take? (to ensure the longest and happiest life possible for the vehicle)
There's a GMI member who think that truck is "too nice" for plowing, but I guess you've plowed with much newer and much nicer trucks... and I'm sure there's a way to keep the truck in good shape even with a plow...
what measures (if any) would you take? (to ensure the longest and happiest life possible for the vehicle)
There's a GMI member who think that truck is "too nice" for plowing, but I guess you've plowed with much newer and much nicer trucks... and I'm sure there's a way to keep the truck in good shape even with a plow...
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Don't plow on thin ice. I looked at my 98 SLE with 30000km's on it, with an underwater camera 35' down in Dec 2000.
Don't loan it to buddies, or hire someone to do your plowing with it. Take your time when plowing. Take the plow off when you are not plowing.
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Put it this way. yes and no.Does this mean, as usual, that I can perfectly do it, with no consequence, just that it's "not recommended" ?
In 1998 I ordered 2 L.B. Ext. Cab SLE diesel 4x4's for a customer. These trucks had pretty much every option box ticked off. Z71, Bed liner, G80, hitch.
GM Enginiering, would not build them, saying "They are too heavy" That was before adding a plow. Altough there are L.B. 4x4 diesels out there.
1 of my customers, is running a 8' Western Pro Plus plow on his 06 F-150, which is 285lb's heavier than recommended. He put a set of Timbren on, and for the most part, just pushes his plow down his road.
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Would you guys recommend this over a paper one?
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=33-2062-1
Also, what kind of immediate maintenance/check-ups should I be performing?
Thanks for helping me have the happiest possible GM ownership experience
nailhead425: duly noted re: cooling system upgrade. That's on my list...
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=33-2062-1
Also, what kind of immediate maintenance/check-ups should I be performing?
Thanks for helping me have the happiest possible GM ownership experience
nailhead425: duly noted re: cooling system upgrade. That's on my list...
NOPE!!!Would you guys recommend this over a paper one?
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=33-2062-1
Also, what kind of immediate maintenance/check-ups should I be performing?
Thanks for helping me have the happiest possible GM ownership experience
nailhead425: duly noted re: cooling system upgrade. That's on my list...
I would never use a KN filter. Too much dust makes it through. Ford even had bulletins to void the warranty on Power Strokes if one was installed. It was dusting the cylinder walls and causing top end engine damage and wear.
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Why? a 4L80E is a great tranny.
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