[Neanderthal]

JB, I saw the same tech bulletin over at the KIA store Monday. Use only factory oil filters, others may have OP variations which can affect reliability and therefore warranty.

I was in an Enterprise lot a few days back talking turkey. Guy's been in the car business 30+ years, used to be in San Diego before moving here to the NW. We're rural in a city sort of way, i.e. main vehicle is a PUT or similar.

He said folks here don't care much about PM, while in San Diego the O&F and other preventive maintenance was pretty much a given among most of the population he saw.

I'm not sure if "Maintenance is Regional" hypothesis would hold up, but that was his observation after decades in the bidness.

And to lay the issue to rest, it seems the simplest solution is to use factory oil filters.

 

[slls]

This filter issue reminds of a 2.4 l site that stated use only A/C Delco, issues with some other brands.

 

[rustywrench]

This timing chain issue is starting to hit the F150 ecoboost hard now. Is the problem the long chain design of the DOHC engines? http://www.f150forum.com/f70/broken-timing-chains-2011-ecoboosts-242220/

 

[Neanderthal]

Bring back the timing belt!!

 

[swagled]

why change the oil so frequently?

I'd say it does not need to be CHANGED more frequently. Oil needs to be TOPPED regularly. Even the infamous NorthStars have a long life when the owner becomes good buddies with the oil stick. I always say: When the oil level shows half a quart low, it means the engine needs half a quart. I believe in this rule after putting 253,000 miles on my prior car and have 218,000 on my Intrigue.

Telling the customers to change oil more frequently, is the lazy way of getting them to top it more often.

 

[Smaart Aas Saabr]

But what would be the issue of low oil? I would think, as long as there is enough enough for the snorkel to drink (oil pressure is okay) then the level would be only like the fuel tank level, not important. Surely adding oil frequently would keep oil from getting too old, but still...

This timing chain issue is starting to hit the F150 ecoboost hard now. Is the problem the long chain design of the DOHC engines? http://www.f150forum.com/f70/broken-timing-chains-2011-ecoboosts-242220/

DOHC V-engine has a complicated and hella long timing chain routing, but considering the large number of other companies who have made such products without issues for decades, nothing impossible...



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[impala02]

This timing chain issue is starting to hit the F150 ecoboost hard now. Is the problem the long chain design of the DOHC engines? http://www.f150forum.com/f70/broken-timing-chains-2011-ecoboosts-242220/

Who cares? The new F150 will be all aluminum and have way more EcoBoost. I even heard that people will stop buying trucks until the aluminum god arrives. So no one is worrying about some stupid timing chain issue!

Just kidding, I do wonder what the biggest issue with the timing chain is in these engines.

 

[doh]

This timing chain issue is starting to hit the F150 ecoboost hard now. Is the problem the long chain design of the DOHC engines? http://www.f150forum.com/f70/broken-timing-chains-2011-ecoboosts-242220/

Personally I believe that the Oil Life Monitor, and 5W20 oil has everything to do with Failures.

The first EcoBoosts required 5W20 oil, then switched to 5W30. Turbo's do get HOT. 5W20 recommended, in hopes to gain Fuel Mileage.

As for the Oil Life Monitor, I bailed on my Wifes 2013 F150 @ 9200 km's still showing 47% oil life remaining. Getting a Full Dealership Service.

I believe that OLM are scanning driving habits of everyday use. 30-50% life still remaining and then 1 day you hook up to that 6-8000 lb trailer and start towing it 75 mph down the freeway.

The 1 time you work the vehicle, after being a Daily Driver since the last oil change, makes the 5W20 oil way too light to handle the needs of the engine in a High Work situation. You know what, if you don't believe me. Hook any new Vehicle with an OLM up to it's Max Trailer Tow capacity. Take it out on the freeway @ 70-75 MPH. I bet that vehicle won't make more tha 2-3000 miles before "Oil Change Rquired" light comes up.

My Truck doesn't have an OLM (thank God) so I change the oil every 8000 kms/5000 miles. It gets worked hard too. 5 block trips to work (never a chance to warm up) to 3/4 throttle for 2 hours straight trudging through 3' of snow. I switched to 10 weight heavier Hot oil than recommended to combat the Heavy Useage times. 182000 km's without any troubles (knock on wood)

OLM can only keep up with Average Driving. It is the Extreme circumstances that make's it fail. And 5W20 oil!

 

[rustywrench]

Also, back in the 80's, we had oil that still had the good additives in the oil like zinc that the CC can't handle now. The older push rod v8's had them short heavy timing chains that would last a long time. (don't remind me about those nylon molded cam sprockets of years past).

 

[jimcon805]

So with this thread a year old and I am contemplating purchase of a 2008 CTS with 70,000 miles what failures, if any, have occurred with the replacement chain or motors and did the chain updates FIX the problem for occurring again before the GM extended warranty up to 120,000 miles?

Did the factory change the chain "pitch" of the chain and/or sensor for the 3.6 liter chain or motor updates?

 

[JMShocker2010]

A lot of the 3.6L timing chain failures have to do with people going 6,000, 7,000, 8,000, and 9,000 miles on an oil change because the oil life monitor says the oil is still ok. At that mileage the oil starts getting thick and the oil can't make it to the chains and the tensioners that run off oil pressure. Then the Chains go bad. We have replaced countless chain kits in these 3.6L and also some 2.4L. STOP LISTENING TO THE OIL LIFE MONITOR. Just because the government says the oil is ok that long doesn't mean that it is. 4,000 to 5,000 miles is the longest interval you should go on conventional or Dexos oil.

 

[1999 White C5 Coupe]

A lot of the 3.6L timing chain failures have to do with people going 6,000, 7,000, 8,000, and 9,000 miles on an oil change because the oil life monitor says the oil is still ok. At that mileage the oil starts getting thick and the oil can't make it to the chains and the tensioners that run off oil pressure. Then the Chains go bad. We have replaced countless chain kits in these 3.6L and also some 2.4L. STOP LISTENING TO THE OIL LIFE MONITOR. Just because the government says the oil is ok that long doesn't mean that it is. 4,000 to 5,000 miles is the longest interval you should go on conventional or Dexos oil.

What "government" are you stating that "says the oil is ok that long"?

 

[chrisholland03]

What "government" are you stating that "says the oil is ok that long"?

It made for a good first post :fall:

 

[Gearhead43]

Many Automakers are seeing the effects of oil dilution due to High pressure GDI. Which makes me wonder if this could be PART of the issue o201-2015 timing chains wearing/ stretching.. Again.. Would point to oil changes at every 3500-4000 miles intervals.

 

[doh]

A lot of the 3.6L timing chain failures have to do with people going 6,000, 7,000, 8,000, and 9,000 miles on an oil change because the oil life monitor says the oil is still ok. At that mileage the oil starts getting thick and the oil can't make it to the chains and the tensioners that run off oil pressure. Then the Chains go bad. We have replaced countless chain kits in these 3.6L and also some 2.4L. STOP LISTENING TO THE OIL LIFE MONITOR. Just because the government says the oil is ok that long doesn't mean that it is. 4,000 to 5,000 miles is the longest interval you should go on conventional or Dexos oil.

Oil doesn't any longer "Get Thick" it gets "Thinned" by many cold starts, short drives, idling in Drive Thrus and such.

So what is wrong with 6000 mile oil changes? Inconvenient try a Babbitt Bearing adjustment oh and a Valve Lash adjustment at the same time.

There was a time when Oil was Oil, Now it is like Water 5W20, and heat and gas thins it out even more

My truck doesn't have an OLM on it so I do a change every 5000 miles. Synthetic during winter months. My wife's has an OLM, and I change hers every time it gets lower than 40%. (Yes I know I used to state every 50% but missed) What is the harm? $50 and someones Used Oil Heater gets used for the night.

 

[Smaart Aas Saabr]

^^ But a new engine on new oil shouldn't need an oil change in 6000 miles. A 1966 Ford could handle 6000 miles on ancient SAE 30 garbage.
Why does this new engine have so much problems? Is it an inadequate PCV system coupled with high blowby because of the single compression ring ? (if it indeed has only one ring which I think is right)

The cost is low compared to a new engine for sure. But who has the time to spend cash (for good oil) and get under the car and change oil, etc at 6000 miles, I might have a long commute but realistically are you going to go out there under your car in mid February out in the Kenora district or whatever at -40 deg to change it?

OK I admit I would even prefer that to doing it in Montreal or Toronto when it is -10 and that slush crap is everywhere



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[slls]

Lots of things are being done for better mileage, it's going to worse before better.

 

[Cyber2steve]

I just start having the same problem and my car is a 2012 Cadillac CTS Coupe about 96000 miles...