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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is not in the Chiltons or the Haynes manuals.
For those that want to get rid of the squeaky indler assembly (belt tensioner), this is how you do it.
Here is how to change the belt idler tensioner for the 2.4 (ld9) engine while it is still in the vehicle.
Start by removing the air intake system and leave the throttlebody on the intake manifold. Remove the throttle cable assembly and set it aside. Remove all of the hoses and connections (electrical) that are attached to the throttlebody. Set aside all of the hoses, clamps and if you want to, label them as to where each one goes. It makes it easier to remember where they go. Be careful of the microline that goes to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. It can be brittle and break, like mine did. It's easy to get some more and can be found in the airfilter section of most car parts places. Ask for Microline or vacuum lines.
Remove the drive belt according to the section 1-20 in the Chiltons manual.
Next is the alternator, you must remove all of the alternator bolts (using a 13mm deep well socket for the top bolts and 13mm standard socket for the side bolt) but do not remove the actual alternator.
You must then remove the egr valve (years 95-98) which is near the power steering pump and is attached with two 10mm bolts. Make sure the gasket does not get damaged and be careful..
You must also remove the metal hose coming off of the egr valve assembly, just below the egr valve itself. Another 10mm bolt holds this too. Gently push the metal hose out of the way.
Next comes the intake manifold itself.
I started from the middle and worked out when I loosened all of the 13mm bolts. You will need a deep well socket for most and a 13mm standard socket as well. Some of the hoses coming from the air/ fuel separator may have to be moved out of the way for you to access the bolts. Before the manifold is completely removed, make sure you remove the wiring attached to the bottom side of the intake manifold. There are two split loom retainers there that need to be disconnected before removal of the manifold.
Carefully remove the manifold from the engine compartment and clean around the openings of the ports while trying not to get dirt and oil residue into the ports.
Just below the alternator bracket, you will see the belt tensioner bracket. From just to the left of the air/ fuel separator is located (small projecting cover just to the right of the tensioner bracket.
Inside the bracket is the nut that holds the tensioner to the bracket. With a 15mm deep well socket, remove the nut, pull the old tensioner off, clean and attach the new tensioner in the same way as the old one came off.
Now it's time to put it all together again.
I installed the alternator first but not tightening the bolts but just finger tight. The top long bolt needs to stay out until the intake manifold is installed all the way. You can also hook up the electrical portion of the alternator at this time too.
Next, install the intake manifold, making sure you route all wires and hosed properly.
I finger tightened all of the manifold bolts, half torqued from the middle to the outside bolts. Once this was done, did a final torque from the middle to the outside for the final torque down of all the manifold bolts.
Reinstall the EGR hose to the proper connection on the head and then install the egr valve making sure you tighten properly.
That's pretty much it.
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