'02 Tahoe Rear Wheel

[goochman]

Folks,

I had my brakes replaced approx 9 months ago on my 2002 LT Tahoe 4WD.

Recently I was hearing that ear piercing 'screeching' occasionally and usually when turning the wheel right.

A return the the brake shop and the tech noted the following:

Right Rear Wheel has excessive In-Out play, Left Rear Wheel has no play. Potential Differntial Issue, please have Dealer inspect.

He replaced the rear brake pads under warrenty - however,

Any thoughts on his comments? How much would a rebuilt diff cost in one of these or could there be another solution? They wont give me another set of free pads 9 months down the road if I havent corrected this issue.

[weo38]

I'm not sure what a rebuilt diff costs but I have another question(s) for you. Did you get any vibration because of this condition and or did your rear tire on that side wear different? I'm asking because I am chasing a vibration on my truck and wondering if I have some sort of rear end problem as well.

[goochman]

No vibration or uneven wear, just squeeky brakes, esp when turning right

[shadams]

Was the inside pad worn out? Is that what was causing the noise? Does it still have the noise afte he replaced the pads?

[goochman]

The pad was replaced and the noise has gone away. I presume that means the inside pad.

[shadams]

It is fairly common for the inside pads to wear out on the rear. It is a result of debris, ie dust, dirt, etc getting into the rear calipers causing them to stick after application and not fully retract. (the piston side that is, which pushes on the inside pad), When you replace the pads you should always clean and lube the caliper slides and pistons, so this doesn't happen. I would put money on that being the cause of the problem rather then the rear diff being bad. The only way what they said could happen is if the C clip that holds in the axle is worn thinner so the axle actually moves in and out, and that part doesn't move and cant come out. I call BS, sounds like they are just trying to avoid responsibility for either cheap pads, or not cleaning the calipers properly, or still didn't see a bad/sticking caliper because they don't know what they are doing beyond swapping brake pads. There is even a bulletin from GM on that problem, let me find it.

edit: The bulletin applies to the trucks and is for installation of a before the wheel mudflap to keep junk out of the rear calipers when driving off road, but the SUVs have a solid wheel well in back so it wouldnt need a flap.

[goochman]

Thanks for the info - ill have my dealer look and cleanup everything good - 3 months ago I heard a bit of a grinding noise which sounded like there was dirt in the rear brakes - could be the issue.

[Triple-X08]

you should get 50k out of rear pads on a tahoe with no problem.

i dont think i would go and drop in a new diff, there is no reason for it.

it will run you 1k + to have your diff replaced. if its a eaton locker setup then its more.

its supposed to have in and out play, it cant go any where, you have a shaft in the center of the carrier that makes it so your c clips cant come out,
and it cant go out too far because your c clips stop the axle.


only time i would replace a diff is if you have noise, like a gear noise, not squeeling, before i slap a diff in i would certainly have it checked by another person.

the 10 bolt is a solid piece they dont fail often. normally they go bad if you have 200k and never change the fluid or if you get water in there and it alters the fluid, or if something catastrophically happens to the carrier or pinion.

[73ChevelleSS]

So where did you have the brakes done?I can only imagine.It sounds like a bunch of BS to me.I have had vehicles like this before.A customer goes to Midas,or Pep Boys or whoever.The come back to the dealer because "they were told" the vehicle has a bad caliper etc...Oh sure it does.

[Triple-X08]

i like it when customers come in from uncle ed's or walmart, because they messed something up, then i get stuck fixing there mistakes.

[goochman]

Yeah, I dont think anything is wrong with the diff since its not making any noise, nor clunks or anything else. I have 104K on my Tahoe and got 90K out of the first set of brakes. The dealer quoted me $1200 for pads and rotors which is why I went to Pep Boys - even if they didnt last for 90K, I couldnt afford $1200 for new brakes. I figured changing brakes is a pretty easy thing which they hadnt screwed up in the past on

Hope to get my Tahoe checked out at the dealer this week just to clear things up.

[Ryan066]

could be your backing plates too,, they are bad for rusting oout on these trucks .. causing a scraping noise.

[goochman]

Just got word from the dealer - they didnt find anything 'loose' and something like that would be noticable when driving/tire wear. They did find the backing plates rusted through (shock ) and highly suggested replacing those (which also comes with a differential fluid change - doh)

So Im happy that its not a major differntial/braking issue, I am a bit annoyed that the real issue lies in the rear design allowing a bunch of gook to rust these thing out.

Should be happily breaking squeek free tonight

[73ChevelleSS]

Originally Posted by goochman

Just got word from the dealer - they didnt find anything 'loose' and something like that would be noticable when driving/tire wear. They did find the backing plates rusted through (shock ) and highly suggested replacing those (which also comes with a differential fluid change - doh)

So Im happy that its not a major differntial/braking issue, I am a bit annoyed that the real issue lies in the rear design allowing a bunch of gook to rust these thing out.

Should be happily breaking squeek free tonight

So you paid for a brake job at Pep Boys right,and they installed new rotors and pads and did not notice that the rear shields were rusted?Considering that the rear axles will now have to be removed in order to install the rear shields I would be upset.You would of saved on the labor if you had it all done at the same time.Shame on you for going to Pep Boys.

[goochman]

Originally Posted by 73ChevelleSS

So you paid for a brake job at Pep Boys right,and they installed new rotors and pads and did not notice that the rear shields were rusted?Considering that the rear axles will now have to be removed in order to install the rear shields I would be upset.You would of saved on the labor if you had it all done at the same time.Shame on you for going to Pep Boys.

Well, the dealer quoted me $1200 for new pads/rotors. I paid significantly less at Pep Boys who replaced the first set of pads for free after noticing them wearing fast(and I get new pads for free as long as I own the car, just pay labor).

If the dealer wouldve indicated that the $1200 included new rear shields and all the other things I am paying I prob wouldve had them do the service - Im going to get clarification tonight for my own curiosity as to what that $1200 actually covered? I am still ahead $300 on the way things are going, but I dont mind paying a bit more for the dealer to do things - $1200 for pads/rotors only is too much.